Stresa Sights

Food: Cooking Class At Ristorante Delfino

2012-03-07T07:33:00.002-05:00

I've been meaning to share these photos with you for some time now. They were taken at a cooking lesson at Ristorante Delfino, on Isola Bella. Fabri sent them to me after the lesson, which he had organized for these visitors. He brought them to the island on his private motoscafo, water taxi, they then took their private cooking class with Andrea in the kitchen of his restaurant, and then they all enjoyed pranzo, lunch, with the dish they prepared.

On this day, the dish is pasta Maltagliati con Salsiccia e Zucchini. Mal, meaning bad, and tagliati, meaning cut. Maltagliati is pasta that is very roughly cut from the rolled out sheets of flat dough into random shapes and sizes, and then quickly cooked. Above, Andrea worked with the women forming the dough, and below, a rolling knife is used to cut it into pieces.

Next, fresh zucchini squash and the salciccia, the sausage, are cooked, and eventually all ingredients are mixed together to create the dish.

After the preparation and the cooking -- of course the eating! The pasta lunch was enjoyed with wine, water, and dessert. Aprons were awarded to the apprentice chefs for their efforts, and then they were transported back to the mainland with Fabri and the motoscafo again.

Ristorante Delfino is in its second century of business on Isola Bella.

It is a large restaurant that can accomodate up to 500 guests in several different dining rooms, including a beautiful outdoor dining terrace.

Are you interested in having a cooking lesson as a part of your vacation in Stresa? If you want to know more about this contact us, or write to Fabri directly at: www.maggiorediscovery.com. and read through our tour section for other ideas.

By the way, these women taking the cooking class were visiting Stresa all the way from Cape Town, South Africa, and this was their fifth trip here! Proof again that once is never enough to visit Stresa.

cooking photos courtesy of maggiorediscovery.com

ristorante delfino photos courtesy of ristorantedelfino.com

FYI: Public Restrooms

2012-03-04T14:58:00.002-05:00

Okay... I'm warning you in advance... this is probably the least romantic post you'll ever read on this blog. But, it's important information that deserves to be shared. A couple recently wrote, saying,

"Are there public rest rooms in Stresa? We like walking and there are times when it helps to know where the rest rooms are located."

So today, in Stresa, let's look at the loos. Truth is, there are not many. These are the ones that I know of:

This one, marked WC, is located just on the eastern edge of the large parking lot in front of the Stresa imbarcadero.

At the ticket office of the imbarcadero there is another basic restroom, on the side of the building where the tourist office is. It was unlocked on the day that I checked for this post. .... (continued)

Down at the other end of Stresa, at the cableway station at Carciano, there is one, locked at the time that I checked it. And there are restrooms at the train station as well.

That all being said, I will advise that it is also possible to find restrooms at most every bar and restaurant in Stresa. So, while walking, stop in for a quick cappuccino, or buy a bottled water, and feel free to use the facilities. Another option is to stop in to one of the large hotels along the lake and ask for the public restrooms.

And how to ask? The proper thing to ask for is il bagno, the bathroom. If you are asking in English ask to use the bagno. If you are asking in Italian, you should say, "Dove e' il bagno? (Where is the bathroom?)" or, "Sa dove c'e' un bagno? (Do you know where there is a bathroom?)"

And if you want to ask for a toilet, know that it is pronounced here as tua-let, not toy-let. So there you have it. The necessary information about the bagnos, loos, WCs, restrooms, toilettes, or whatever you call them, in Stresa.

Stresa: Carnevale -- Martedi Grasso Polenta

2012-02-28T06:17:00.000-05:00

The second part of the Carnevale celebration in Stresa (the first part having been the procession of King Falcett and his court on Sunday) is the traditional meal served in the piazza on the Tuesday called martedi grasso, the day we call Mardi Gras. This Tuesday was a gloriously warm early spring day, which brought even more people outside to enjoy the festivity. In earlier times, the ragu prepared on this day would have been a tapelucco, which is a ragu prepared with donkey meat. It had been on the schedule of events for today, and I will admit a bit of disappointment that ultimately it was not offered. I had been curious to try this. However, the menu, shown above, was traditional, warm, and very filling nonetheless.

The preparation of the polenta began earlier in the day. A row of large cooking vats placed over heated barrels were lined up on one side of Piazza Cadorna. Each was filled with polenta and carefully watched by volunteer cooks who stirred it with large wooden paddles until the consistency was perfect.

This batch of steaming polenta is ready, and the cook asked me if I liked it. You bet I do.

On the other side of Piazza Cadorna the serving table was getting organized as well. Here we have the sausages and ragu, which had been cooked elsewhere, the cakes, beverages, and all of the serving dishes.

The vats of polenta were carried over, each by two strong men, when they were ready. Dishes were served assembly line style, starting with a huge helping of polenta. I had it all. Polenta, sausage, and ragu.

I took mine inside and ate there. The tables and benches set up in the piazza were completely filled with many eating lunch at noon in the sunshine.

I can understand why polenta was such an important staple of the region's mountain populations. It is hearty and so filling; I could eat only a small portion of the amount in my dish. Later, when the polenta had cooled and hardened a bit in the fridge, we compressed it, sliced off some blocks, and reheated them in a pan with a drop of oil, making what looked a bit like large french fries. These were also very, very good.

Stresa: Carnevale -- The Procession Of King Falcett

2012-02-25T09:27:00.005-05:00

First, I heard the drums...

Although inside with windows closed, I heard the marching beat of the drums coming closer with each step. That's when I remembered, "Ah! It's Carnevale oggi, today!" So I rushed outside and followed the sound to the lakefront, luckily arriving in advance of the slow-moving procession. A good portion of the parking lot in front of the Stresa Imbarcadero had been kept empty for the ensuing show. Leading the parade were King Falcett and his queen, being chauffered in great style in a historic automobile very reminiscent of Chitty Chitty Bang Bang, just without the wings.

Following them, in a carriage pulled by a pony, were five little princesses, who waved to the crowd and showered it with paper confetti. .... (continued)

So, who is King Falcett? Why is he Stresa's Carnevale king? It seems that for many centuries the inhabitants of Stresa had a nickname, Falcitt. The falcetto is the sickle-shaped steel knife used in farming for pruning and cutting. One can find still, around Stresa, a coat of arms design with the falcetto in the center of a shield. From this nickname, at Carnevale time, a king of the Falcitt, a King Falcett, was chosen to lead the festivities, and this tradition continues today.

The day was gray, but not too cold; the princesses kept warm in velvet capes and winter boots.

Next came a procession of members of the court. Their leader carried a banner which read Palio di Asti, Sbandierato Comune di San Damiano. This was this year's visiting court, come all the way from San Damiano d'Asti, a small comune to the west, near Torino, in Piemonte. They brought with them their famous flag performing troupe.

Everyone in the crowd was dressed in Carnevale finery.

The townspeople, including these little maidens and one kitty, formed a large ring around the square, giving the performers the space they needed.

To the accompaniment of the drums and trumpets the group of ten young men performed several intricately choreographed routines with the large bright bandiere, the flags.

They tossed, twirled, and threw in perfect synchronization without any drops or errors. The grand finale was this pyramid. The crowd loved it. Much applause and confetti followed;

even the pony was looking festive.

Meanwhile, back in Piazza Cadorna, another crowd was gathering. They were waiting for King Falcett and his court to arrive as well. This crowd was waiting for the costume contest that the court would judge. Among the interesting costumes in the piazza I noticed this falcetto-wielding box of french fries,

a little lion cub riding on a matching pony,

blooming flowers,

a pirate and clown with a good view,

and a mini king.

Once arrived in Piazza Cadorna the court all took their seats on the stage. The fancy dress costume contest was about to begin. But this was when I left the festivities to return inside. And therefore, I did not discover who won the contest.

What fun to witness this annual Stresa tradition and to see the joy on the faces of young and old. Much of the 'court', by the way. were Stresa residents, who volunteered for the positions in the days preceding the event and went to the staging ground at Hotel Meeting to be costumed. What a nice tradition this must be... I can imagine Stresa children having a chance at this at some time in their childhoods and enjoying the memory forever.

Transportation: Alibus Shuttle From Malpensa To Stresa

2012-02-24T12:12:00.000-05:00

Your shuttle bus will look like this or similar, with, most likely, this S.A.F. logo on it, not Alibus.

The Alibus Malpensa/Stresa Shuttle has been mentioned a few times on this blog, and readers are always asking me about it, so I thought it was time to give this important transfer transportation from Malpensa Airport a dedicated post of its own. Each year the information will be updated. Following is the Alibus information and links for 2012.

5 Things You Need To Know About Alibus:

What Is The Alibus Operating Schedule?

For 2012 Alibus will begin service to Stresa and Lago Maggiore on Thursday April 5, and will run until Sunday September 30. It runs seven days a week. The earliest bus each day leaves Malpensa at 8:30 am and the last bus each day leaves Malpensa at 9:00 pm. The trip to Stresa takes one hour. For the returns to Malpensa, the earliest bus leaves Stresa each day at 6:30 am and the last bus leaves Stresa each day at 7:30 pm, arriving at Malpensa one hour later.

Where Can I Make My Reservation?

Directly on the Alibus website here: http://www.safduemila.com/alibus-2012.html. You can fill out the form provided, call them directly during business hours, send them an email, or send them a fax. You must make the reservation no later than the day before you intend to travel. Here is what they say," The user should book his own travelling, choosing from the fixed timetables, before h.11:00 of the day before the departure. For the departures on Sundays and Monday the call should be done before h.11:00 of Saturday. For the transfers on festivities and the coming day the call should be done before h.11:00 of the day before the festivity." And as they indicate, when you receive an email from them consider it your confirmation and proof of reservation. If you do not receive an email please try contacting them again.

How Much Does The Alibus Shuttle Cost?
For the year 2012 the price for each person, each way, to Stresa or back, is 12 euro.

How Do I Pay For My Ticket?

Tickets must be paid for on the bus, and only in cash. This will require having euro with you, so if you are planning to take the shuttle upon arrival to Malpensa please plan to have the correct amount of euro ready, or to visit an ATM in the airport.

Where Does The Alibus Pick Me Up At Malpensa Airport?
From MALPENSA terminal 1, exit door n°4, cross the road and wait at bus stop n°22. From MALPENSA terminal 2, bus stop n°12 (Note: this is a new stopping place in 2012).

Where Does The Alibus Drop Me In Stresa?
Alibus shuttle stops in the large parking lot, also called Piazza Marconi, at the boat imbarcadero. When possible, as noted on the site, your Alibus driver may be able to stop closer to your hotel if it is directly along the lake. Ask him about this when you board, but be prepared for the Piazza Marconi stop.

Okay, it was six things... But these are the questions I'm most commonly asked, and the most important to know. In general, know that Alibus has been running this service for many years and is reliable and safe. The large coach buses are comfortable and luggage will be stored underneath. It is a very economical and easy way to reach Stresa from Malpensa. Alibus now also offers on the site suggestions for your transport if you are traveling outside of this season.

Alibus site: http://www.safduemila.com/alibus-2012.html

tel. 0039.0323.552172
fax 0039.0323.552165
alibus@safduemila.com

bus photo courtesy of Alibus website

History: Napoleon, And A Tree On Isola Bella

2012-02-19T03:48:00.038-05:00

This is the view from my plane as we descended into Malpensa airport. A northern Italy still covered in snow. Although the temperatures have lifted now, there is still a bit of a feeling of hibernation. I'm here organizing things with the Stresa Italian Language School. And so, while I am occupied with that, I'll give you a little history and a poem for your Sunday reading. But before I read you the poem, let me tell you about it. It is a story about Napoleon Bonaparte, and I came across this piece of trivia while researching the other Napoleon, Napoleon III, to write this blog post, about the Pedum, the 'Head of Napoleon" mountain.

The poem is about a long-forgotten tree in the palace gardens on Isola Bella. Napolean liked the island and its gardens very much. It is said, and there are many historical accounts of its truth apparently, that Napoleon carved a word into this tree while here, just a few days before the Battle of Marengo, which took place on June 14, 1800, near Alessandria, in Piemonte. The poem was written by Lord Lytton, who wrote also these opening words:

In the Isola Bella, upon the Lago Maggiore, where the richest vegetation of the tropics grows in the vicinity of the Alps, there is a lofty laurel-tree (the bay), tall as the tallest oak, on which, a few days before the battle of Marengo, Napoleon carved the word “Battaglia.” The bark has fallen away from the inscription, most of the letters are gone, and the few left are nearly effaced.

In 1822, the Duchess of Devonshire writes of it to a friend:

"We went to Isola Bella, and there saw (but faintly) what Napolean had written on a tree --- 'Batalia'. It was the first time he went to Milan, and whilst still only General, and is carved on the rind of the largest laurel I ever saw --- quite a tree, like a good siz'd elm tree. Was it an omen of his future glory, and did he so chuse it as great was his glory --- and great his downfall? --- never was greater moral lesson given to man." (the spelling is her original.)

This is a painting I found, by Francois Flameng, of Napolean at Isola Bella. There is the unicorn in the background.... I like to think that it could be one of those trees behind the group on which he carved. If the tree still exists now then any trace of the mark will be long gone. But I wonder if the tree still stands. It is another little mystery to discover one day.

Napolean at Isola Bella

Lord Lytton (1803-1873)

O FAIRY island of a fairy sea,

Wherein Calypso might have spelled the Greek,

Or Flora piled her fragrant treasury,

Culled from each shore her zephyr’s wings could seek,—

From rocks where aloes blow,

Tier upon tier, Hesperian fruits arise;

The hanging bowers of this soft Babylon;

An India mellows in the Lombard skies,

And changelings, stolen from the Lybian sun,

Smile to yon Alps of snow.

Amid this gentlest dreamland of the wave

Arrested, stood the wondrous Corsican;

As if one glimpse the better angel gave

Of the bright garden-life vouchsafed to man

Ere blood defiled the world.

He stood,—that grand Sesostris of the North,—

While paused the car to which were harnessed kings;

And in the airs, that lovingly sighed forth

The balms of Araby, his eagle-wings

Their sullen thunder furled

And o’er the marble hush of those large brows

Dread with the awe of the Olympian nod,

A giant laurel spread its breathless boughs,

The prophet-tree of the dark Pythian god,

Shadowing the doom of thrones!

What, in such hour of rest and scene of joy,

Stirs in the cells of that unfathomed brain?

Comes back one memory of the musing boy,

Lone gazing at the yet unmeasured main,

Whose waifs are human bones?

Write on the sacred bark such native prayer,

As the mild power may grant in coming years,

Some word to make thy memory gentle there;

More than renown, kind thought for men endears

A hero to mankind.

Slow moved the mighty hand,—a tremor shook

The leaves, and hoarse winds groaned along the wood;

The Pythian tree the damning sentence took,

And to the sun the battle-word of blood

Glared from the gashing rind.

So thou hast writ the word, and signed thy doom:

Farewell, and pass upon thy gory way.

The direful skein the pausing Fates resume!

Let not the Elysian grove thy steps delay

From thy Promethean goal.

The fatal tree the abhorrent word retained

Till the last battle on its bloody strand

Flung what were nobler had no life remained,—

The crownless front, and the disarméd hand,

And the foiled Titan soul;

Now, year by year, the warrior’s iron mark

Crumbles away from the majestic tree,

The indignant life-sap ebbing from the bark

Where the grim death-word to humanity

Profaned the Lord of Day.

High o’er the pomp of blooms, as greenly still,

Aspires that tree,—the archetype of fame,

The stem rejects all chronicle of ill,

The bark shrinks back,—the tree survives the same,

The record rots away.

Read other history posts here.

BIG NEWS!: The Stresa Italian Language School

2012-02-13T08:44:00.000-05:00

My Big News!
Here's the bigger bite of news that I was promising:

So, this all began about a year ago, when a reader of this blog wrote to me, asking about Italian lessons. In finding information for the reader I found Simon, and I learned about the Italian classes he was holding. Long story short, I meet with Simon, we continue to talk, he introduces me to other great people, and here I am now, SO excited to say that I'm going to be involved with them in the Stresa Italian Language School!

This week we're doing a lot of organizing for the upcoming season. The classrooms have just been renovated and we're having a bunch of meetings to get everything ready. You'll be hearing more about this from me. I'll be introducing you to all the people involved, and showing you photos of the school. In the meantime, take a look at the brand new website:

italian-language-school.org

I'm beyond excited about this! It's going to be so much fun for us all!

News Bites: Little Bits Of News From Stresa

2012-02-08T21:37:00.003-05:00

Just enough news to enjoy with your cappuccino.

In this edition of News Bites we have some cold water, some hot water, some polenta and a 'crumb' of a teaser.

Carnevale Time! Stresa has published the official schedule of Carnevale events:

Sunday, 19 February:

10:30 AM: The procession of King Falcett and his court will depart from the Palazzo dei Congressi, through the streets of Stresa, arriving at Piazza Cadorna to proclaim the opening of Carnevale and make greetings to the town's authorities. The procession will include musicians and flag wavers.

11:00 AM: Masked costume competition in Piazza Cadorna. There will be prizes for individuals, children, couples, and groups. To register for the competition please go to the tourist office in Piazza Marconi by Saturday 18 February at noon.

12:30 PM: At Carciano, yum, there will be polenta, salami, and tapelucco. Tapelucco is a ragu made of very small pieces of donkey meat, a very traditional mountain food served at Carnevale here. The food is offered to eat there or to buy for takeaway. Possibly I will be reporting back to you with my review and photos of the tapelucco.

12:30 And also up in Levo, polenta, wild boar stew, and tapelucco.

Tuesday, 21 February:

12:30 to 14:30: In Piazza Cadorna, another serving of polenta, salami, and tapelucco, preceding the masked parade at 14:30. In case of inclement weather, the food will be served in the Liberty Villa. (continued)

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Last week, the Grand Hotel des Iles Borromees reopened its doors to guests, recognizing the growth of tourism in Stresa outside of the traditional summer season. The five-star hotel is advertising special room and spa packages, noting the attraction of Stresa in the winter to visitors arriving for a weekend of ski and spa treatments such as thermal hydromassage. Borromees is the first of the hotels above 3-star ranking to reopen, joining the few hotels in town which have remained open during the winter, Meeting, Saini, and Mon Toc, and perhaps beginning a new trend. Grand Hotel des Iles Borromees: www.borromees.it Centro Benessere Spa at the hotel: www.centrobenesserestresa.com

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Soon you may be drinking bottled water from our own Levo! Another step forward in the very long and slow process of bringing Acqua Preziosa Stresa to market has occurred. The city council of Stresa has recently approved the use of land in the Stresa frazione, the hamlet, of Levo, for use by the company that will build a water bottling plant on unused land there. The plant would then be used by the private company which already has a permit to use the natural spring water which flows through Levo, with the intention of bottling and marketing it. Stresa hopes that this initiative will bring both jobs and more recognition to the area. But this is still far from happening; in the meantime continue to visit the (almost) free water station in the center of town.

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Grazie per aver letto, for having read, our News Bites oggi, today! And grazie a tutti, thanks to all of you who are already receiving Stresa Sights on Facebook. If you're not already, then please go and click that like button. And guarda questo spazio, watch this space... I have some bella notizia, some great news, coming up ben presto, very soon!

Si, there are a few more words than usual in Italian to read in the above paragraph. I had promised you a teaser, and that is it. I know, it's not much, but you'll know all soon! :-)

Winter: SNOW!

2012-02-04T13:52:00.003-05:00

Piazza Cadorna after being cleared, from the same spot as our other summer/winter photos.

A bunch of photos from Stresa, as it digs itself out from the recent snows. Just after writing, in my recent post about Lago Maggiore, about the relatively warm Mediterranean microclimate here, Stresa, and much of Italy really, have fallen under the effect of a massive Arctic weather front. While not as severe as in other areas, this much snow and temperatures this cold are very unusual here in the center of town. This is a very ghost-town-looking Stresa indeed:

The entrance to the Grand Hotel des iles Borromees.

One of the deserted villas, looking even more desolate than usual.

The Regina Palace Hotel.

The view from Someraro, over Stresa.

From a window above Caffe Torino, the gelato and gift shops are closed up; the bread shop is open.

Looking the other way from that window, the other side of Piazza Cadorna, toward the lake.

So where is everyone?! Maybe they're up on Mt. Mottarone. This photo, taken from the webcam this afternoon, shows a clear, bright day and great conditions. Many of the ski resorts in the region are promoting low-cost tickets and other specials, taking advantage of what is, for them anyway, finally GOOD weather.

And I imagine that many people are just staying home, like my young friends here, enjoying what is hopefully the first and last snow of this season.

That's today's weather update from the frozen pearl of Lago Maggiore! Stay tuned... I hope to be reporting from a sunny and warmer Stresa very soon.

Trivia: Il Pedum -- The Head Of Napoleon

2012-01-27T13:47:00.001-05:00

So, take a look at the mountain range in this photo of Isola Pescatori:

Now, tell me what you see. And don't worry, this isn't one of those psychological tests. Take a look again, this time in this close-up, at the ridges along the top. The most snowy part:

If you still don't see anything, maybe tilt your head toward your right shoulder, so that you can look at the mountaintops sideways. Anything now? Starting on the right, can you see a forehead and bushy, curly hair, a distinguished nose, and a bit of beard covering the chin and neck? Because everyone here in Stresa was telling me that I should see these things. I thought they were pulling my leg. Come on, they said, don't tell me you don't see Napoleon III!
Yes, that's right, everyone around here knows that this particular bit of mountain looks EXACTLY like Louis-Napoleon Bonaparte, otherwise known as Napoleon III, the president of the French Second Republic and the ruler of the second French Empire. Louis-Napoleon was the nephew of the Napoleon you are probably thinking of, the one who, with his wife Josephine, was a guest on Isola Bella in 1797. Take a look at this composite etching of both Napoleons:

Napoleon I (15 August 1769 – 5 May 1821) is standing behind Napoleon III (20 April 1808 – 9 January 1873). I think the nose and beard on Napoleon III look a bit familiar, but it's difficult to tell from that angle. Here's a view more in profile:

In this photograph of Napoleon III we have an almost profile. And I started to see what people meant about the nose. But it was still hard to tell. I still thought it was a joke. Until I found this old coin:

And voila! Now I see it! There he is... Bonjour Napoleon! I'll never NOT see him now, and I bet you won't either.

The "Head of Napoleon" does have another name though... Officially it's known as Il Pedum, and it is a well-known geographic point of reference in Piemonte's Parco Nazionale Val Grande. Its location on this map, indicated by the red dot, shows the direction you'll see it in from Stresa:

I took this photograph, shown again here, while standing at the Carciano ferry stop. The 'nose' is about 20 km away, as the crow flies. It is in the center of the park, not accessible by roads, and of course, it looks very different when there. Not at all like either Napoleon. But here in Stresa it's just another of her little secrets, one that I now know, and now you too.

photography credits: wikipedia, ma-shops.com, the nevada observer,

Friends Of Stresa Sights: John

2012-01-22T16:04:00.002-05:00

A reader named John sent me these two lovely photographs after he read the post "5 Things To Do On A Winter Day In Stresa." He and his wife had just done exactly that, deciding this winter to spend their New Year's Eve here. They had a lovely time, echoing my sentiments in the post about Stresa's winter charms, and they want to share their experience with other readers:

We live in Switzerland and have traveled to Stresa many times over the years by car and train. Last year we decided to escape the big New Year celebrations around Montreux and took the Cisalpino to Stresa on the afternoon of the 31st of December. We stayed with Gianni Saini in one of our favorite rooms [at Hotel Saini], indulged in several glasses of Rose Prosecco chez Massimo and dined in the typically brilliant Vicoletto. No band, no fanfare, no special menu, just Stresa in Winter. Magic.

John was also kind enough to include two photos. The first is his view from inside Buscion; chez Massimo as John called it. :-) I will need to tell Massimo that! The photo is taken looking through the front window out onto via Cavour. I think this could be a poster... The combination of glass, outside view, and reflection is just beautiful!

John apologized for the quality of this second photo, which he took using a panoramic app. It is Piazza Cadorna, taken from approximately where Hotel Elena is, and the Piazza is completely deserted. Everyone was, I imagine, in a warm restaurant such as Il Vicoletto, or having a New Year's dinner at home with family and friends. John loved the unique view of the piazza this way, and I do too.

John, thank you so much for sharing these photos and your words with us. You know that I hope it will encourage others to try a Stresa winter.

Remember readers, other fans of Stresa will really enjoy your photos. If you have some that you would like to share please send them to us!

FYI: Lago Maggiore

2012-01-19T06:29:00.004-05:00

This view of Lago Maggiore is near one of my favorite spots, the towns high above Stresa. This is in the vicinity of, a bit to the west of, the Giardino Alpinia; one of the towers for the cableway can be seen in the lower right. Verbania is the heavily populated area across from the islands, we are looking directly up the lake in the direction of Switzerland, and across the lake on the right is Laveno, in Lombardia.

Search Lago Maggiore online, read about Lago Maggiore, and you know what you will find? A lot of tourist information, and a lot of adjectives: magical, unspoiled, panoramic, picturesque, sinuous. It is described as having gentle shores, intense colors, mild climates, and lush vegetation.

But you know what I noticed?

I noticed that here on Stresa Sights, while we have mentioned Lago Maggiore countless times, also with many adjectives, we have never really spoken factually about Lago Maggiore. So I think it is high time that we remedy that and present a little bit of information about this gorgeous, glorious, tranquil lake that you've come to see.

This view is from the Lombardia side of the lake, in the vicinity of Laveno. Now we are looking back at the Borromeo Gulf, and Stresa is the town on the far upper left of the photo. Verbania is the city on the right side peninsula. This is a great view of how Stresa and the gulf are surrounded by Alps.

Lago Maggiore... it means Great Lake, and from the name you may think it was the largest lake in Italy, but it isn't. While it can boast being the longest lake, it is number two, behind Lake Garda, in terms of surface area. Because the lake is so long and winding, one doesn't get a sense of how large it is, even when out on it on a boat. However, this shape does make it more interesting visually, and means that there are always new and surprising views around the next bend.

Historic Name: Lago Verbano
Length: 68 km.
Width: varies from 3 to 5 km, except at the Borromeo Gulf where the width reaches 10 km.
Surface Area: 212.5 km sq.
Length of Shoreline: 170 km.
Height Above Sea Level: surface height is 193 meters, however the lake bed is deep below sea level.
Average Depth: 177.4 meters
Maximum Depth: 372 meters
Water Volume: 37 cubic km.
Main Inflowing Rivers: Maggia, Strona, Toce, Versasca, Giona, Cannobino
Main Outflowing River: Ticino (which then joins the Po and flows into Milano)

This map is from the Navigazione Laghi website. It shows all of the towns on the shoreline with a ferry stop. On the website these are interactive; each will give you information about the town, and schedules can be found to plan your trips. It illustrates well how long the lake is, and how much there is to see.

The lake is in actuality a large glacial basin, formed tens of thousands of years ago, as are the other two prealpine lakes in northern Italy, Garda and Como. Quoting from Wikipedia:

"The upper end is alpine in nature, but the middle region lies between hills, and the lower end advances to the verge of the Plain of Lombardy. The lake's jagged banks are surrounded by the Prealps of Piemonte. The western bank is in Piemonte [Stresa is located in this region], and the eastern bank is in Lombardy. The most northern part extends 13 km into Switzerland, where it constitutes the lowest point above sea level in that entire country."

Stresa is located in the Borromean Gulf, the Golfo Borromeo. The gulf is also home to the three Borromeo Islands and two small islets: Isolino di San Giovanni (which you see in front of Verbania when you travel there via ferry), and tiny tiny Scoglio della Malghera (that teeny bit of island between Isola Bella and Isola dei Pescatori). The lake is also the cause of the relatively mild Mediterranean microclimate that one finds here. The large surface area of water never freezes, and keeps the surrounding air slightly warmer. And in the summer the water cools the hot summer air that blows across it, causing the famous cooling breezes along the shores. So that microclimate, which allows us to have the unique juxtaposition of palm trees against snow-capped Alps, and the safety and security provided by those enclosing mountains, is exactly what brought the earliest settlements to the banks of the lake. For centuries these settlements have existed and grown, with so many of the towns, such as Stresa, tracing their roots back 1000 years or more.

Ah... the famous microclimate. That makes possible views like this that one would never guess are in this most northern region near the Alps. In fact, this view is from the most northern, Swiss part of the lake.

There you have it. A little bit of geography, and a little bit of science, about the lake. Not too much though. Because I know you really want to get back to the adjectives, right? So let's do that: Lago Maggiore is fanciful, fantastic, diverse, wandering, breathtaking, relaxing, surprising ...

We here at Stresa Sights tend to be, obviously, a bit Stresa-centric, and write about the lake only around Stresa for the most part. We want you to base yourself here, but see the rest of the lake. For starters, use a few good websites to learn about other destinations. I like using the Navigazione Laghi website, which has information about each ferry stop around the lake, as well as schedules for the ferries, planning information, and dozens of photographs.

Looking for more facts: Here's an FYI post about Piemonte:
http://stresasights.blogspot.com/2011/01/fyi-profile-of-piedmont-piemonte.html

And read all the FYI posts here.

Photo credits: photos used are from berge-exclusiv, luxe bed and breakfast, wikipedia, and the navigazione laghi websites.

Winter: 5 Things (And More!) To Do On A Winter Day In Stresa

2012-01-11T08:04:00.002-05:00

Okay. There's no denying that Stresa is a very different place in winter and summer. Just take a look at Piazza Cadorna:

Summer

Winter

What is Stresa like in the winter? The umbrellas and outdoor tables are gone, and so are the crowds. In their place there is only empty piazza, and some construction crews doing maintenance work and renovations during the off season. The large hotels along the lungolago are, for the most part, closed up until spring. When I searched on Booking.com for Stresa in January the result shows only two hotels open in Stresa, one more on Mt. Mottarone, and two B&Bs. It is the same with restaurants. Some are closed for the season, some have only small seating areas inside instead of their outdoor terraces and gardens, and some have greatly reduced hours. The main tourist attractions, the Borromeo islands and properties, and all of the gardens, are also all closed until spring.

But that isn't going to stop us from doing (at least!) 5 awesome things here, right?

Yep, that's right. In spite of all the winter closures, winter tourism seems to be increasing in Stresa. As was reported recently in La Stampa, this past New Year's Eve 24 tour buses arrived in Stresa, carrying upwards of 1000 tourists, to give them a quick view and tour as part of a five-day package they were on. This is interesting, and perhaps it is the first of other such visits.

Stresa's average temperature in the winter months is between 45 and 55 degrees.

But I am speaking more to those of you who would think to come to Stresa in the middle of winter for more than just one day. There are those of you who have been here several times before and may want to see what Stresa is like at other times of the year. There are those of you who like the winter season and its sports. And there may be those of you who prefer the quiet, tranquil months of winter. I have cousins who only go to the beaches of Cape Cod in the winter, to enjoy the solitude. Perhaps you are like this too. The winter weather here, as seen in the chart above, is not terrible. It is mild enough for long walks along the lake or through the trails and it rarely snows.

So what do I suggest to do? Here are 5 things you can do while in Stresa in the winter, and you may notice that most of them are not that different from things that can be done also in the summer:

Go Skiing

While it does not snow much in central Stresa, up on the mountain there should be plenty of the white stuff to ski in. And if not in Stresa there are several other ski locations within an hour or two. Read about skiing in and near Stresa here. And okay, I know you can't do this one in the summer, but you can visit Mt. Mottarone in any season.

And while up on Mottarone take a winter trip on the Alpyland bobsled ride. It's open almost all year.

Go to Milan

Milan is wonderful any time of year but in the winter the crowds are less and the weather isn't as brutally hot. Maybe it will even be easier to get those tickets to see Da Vinci's Last Supper. During the Christmas season enjoy the lights and the shopping. Enjoy the sunshine atop the Duomo year-round. I recently had lunch outdoors on the rooftop terrace of Rinascente -- in mid-December.

Try Some Traditional Winter Foods

Nothing could be more cozy, wintery, and Piemontese than to be at the summit of Mt. Mottarone at Ristorante Casa della Neve, warm by the fireplace and drinking a glass of Fil da Fer. After that as an aperitivo move into the restaurant and share a meal of Raclette or a Brasato con Polenta. All foods that are very common in the mountainous north, and all some of my favorite reasons to like winter here.

Don't Forget That Italian Hot Chocolate!

That intensely thick and syrupy hot chocolate, cioccolata calda, that is absolutely nothing like our watered down American powdered versions. What would be perfect would be a long brisk walk along the lake and then wind up back in town to warm up in one of the bars with a cup.

Go for a Hike

As long as it is not snowing or freezing, there's no reason that you wouldn't enjoy the same walking and hiking around Stresa as in the summer. Perhaps stay on the lower trails that parallel the lake. Nature has its beauty in every season, and with leaves missing from the trees there are some otherwise hidden views of the lake.

Relax at a spa

After that skiing and hiking, or okay, even instead of, refresh and relax at the Centro Benessere Spa at the Hotel des Iles Borromees. The Borromees Hotel is open in the winter, offering special rates and packages.

That's more than five to get you started. Read all of the WINTER posts here. Writing this list has reminded me of some of my favorite things to do in Stresa -- in any season. Some others? Go to some of the small museums that you didn't want to visit in the summer, take a ride on the ferry (the schedule is reduced in the winter) and visit another town, take a trip up to the Premia Terme natural hot springs, visit the Friday market (yummy and much the same all year round). My point is, if you find yourself in Stresa in the winter, when you can see a bit of what it is 'really' like, I hope you will let it charm you.

It is not only the sun in Stresa that will warm your heart.

Non e' solo il sole a Stresa che ti scaldera' il cuore.

Friends Of Stresa Sights: Rick and Deirdra

2012-01-06T05:53:00.003-05:00

Of all the mails I like receiving from readers, follow up mails after their vacations are probably my favorite. And even better ... photos! It's so nice to 'see' who has been writing and visiting Stresa. These photos were sent from Rick and Deirdra, from Maryland, USA. They visited Stresa in mid-October. In spite of a rainy forecast, you can see that they enjoyed some crisp, clear skies. I'm glad they included a couple of photos from the Hotel Bristol, where they stayed, so that any of you who are interested in staying there can see the incredible view you'd be enjoying everyday.

As you can see, Rick and Deirdra also visited the Borromeo palace gardens, and the often-mentioned Caffe Torino. Their stop in Stresa was brief, only three days, but, as Rick said in his mail to me, "We wish we could have had more time to spend there ... Stresa is a very lovely place to visit. Hope we can do it again!"

Rick and Deirdra, thank you so much for sharing your photos! I really hope that you get to visit Stresa again too. If any other 'Friends of Stresa Sights' out there have some pictures they would like to share with us from their time in Stresa, please send them over!

Welcome 2012

2012-01-02T14:05:00.000-05:00

Buon Anno!

Welcome 2012... I can't wait to see what you bring!

Last year was such a wonderful year for Stresa Sights... Our readership grew, we answered dozens of mails from readers, and we helped so many create lifetime memories in Stresa. For those who didn't come here this year, we kept them up to date on events in Stresa, with the hopes that they'll come soon or remember the times they spent here. We also have made Stresa and this particularly lovely corner of Italy better known to so many who really weren't aware of it before. And we started a page on Facebook to follow our posts with, for those who prefer to receive their information there. If you're on Facebook then friend us here: http://www.facebook.com/pages/Stresa-Sights/225333370827045. We have become, it is safe to say, the number 1 English language resource for current information on Stresa.

We were also mentioned other places in 2011. Stresa Sights was featured on author Susan Van Allen's blog, Golden Days in Italy, where I provided Susan with a guest post about a perfect, golden day in Stresa. And Gina has featured us on Villa Vita International's list of Ideal Vacations: Italian Lakes: A Special Visit to Lago Maggiore. It's been such an honor to be recognized by these wonderful people.

And it's been a year in which I've come to know and work with many people in Stresa, all with the goal of helping more people get the most out of their holidays here. We've planned specialized vacations for so many of you... focusing on cooking, or history, or shopping, or cheese making tours. In short, we have created many Golden Days in Stresa. I'd say this has been my favorite part of the past year, and it's what we plan to continue to focus on in 2012. Because it's with these people in Stresa, and the knowledge and insights that they have, that my time and YOURS there will be the most special that it can be. I want you to feel like you have friends in Stresa before you even arrive here, because it's true, you do.

So this year, make it your New Year's resolution that you are going to finally come to Stresa, or return to Stresa, or tell all your friends about Stresa. And stay in touch with us here at Stresa Sights, and follow us as we all see where 2012 will take us!

Happy New Year! Buon Anno Nuovo!

I Hope to See You Here Soon!

Santas In Stresa

2011-12-30T06:36:00.003-05:00

I'm back. Talk about a Christmas vacation! I've experienced Natale, Christmas, so many times in the past two weeks. In four large Italian cities and several smaller places too.

There was the rush of shoppers in the center of sophisticated Milano, where even Santa was doing his shopping at the Galleria:

continued...

And a tree covered with fleur-de-lys, next to medieval alleys, and an understated creche, all outside the Duomo in Firenze.

There was overwhelming splendor in Roma:

And quiet, snow-covered streets strung with lights, all the way up in Leukerbad, in the Swiss Alps.

And, there was Stresa! Here the streets are also strung with lights, and here there were nativity scenes and markets and music and midnight masses.

And on this particular night, a few nights before Christmas eve, there were santas. Many santas. On this cold night, all throughout the town, tables were set up against walls and outside restaurants. Each offering a different kind of food, or wine, or pastries. To keep strollers warm, fires had been lit in the centers of chopped open tree trunks. As beautiful as they were warming.

The santas were playing jazz music, first in one location, then moving to another spot, and so on. We walked around, following them a bit, leaving them only to meet up with them again on a different street corner. Then we took refuge inside Buscion, where Massimo was busy; every table was taken. When a spot opened for us, on my favorite barrel table, we enjoyed wines and bits of meats and cheeses.

I wish I had more, and better, photos of these guys! Their spirit was exuberant and infectious and they drew a small crowd wherever they went. Holiday spirit personified.

It wasn't Firenze or Rome. It wasn't for tourists. It was only for Stresa, and for her residents; to bring them outside and together to celebrate and rejoice, and while all my other Natale visits this winter may have been bigger or more impressive, I was oh so happy to have been in Stresa to see the santas.

Hoping that each of you has had a wonderful holiday, and wishing you tante belle cose, many beautiful things, in the new year.

See you in 2012!

Buon Natale a Tutti!

2011-12-24T11:40:00.002-05:00

Tanti Auguri for a Buon Natale!

From the center of the beautiful city of Rome, we extend wishes to all of you for a magical holiday. We will return soon with more news from Stresa!

Restaurant: Taverna Del Pappagallo

2011-12-18T18:26:00.001-05:00

The first time I ate at Taverna del Pappagallo was on a night I returned to Stresa after a looooong drive all the way from Barcelona. The second time that I ate at Pappagallo was the evening I returned to Stresa from a whirlwind weekend trip to Vienna. And the third time was after a long day and drive back from a sightseeing trip in the Swiss Alps. Pappagallo always seemed the perfect place to go on these evenings, when you don't want to cook, and what you want, and need, is yummy-comforting-easy-familiar food.

Located in the center of the narrow, pedestrian-only Via Principessa Margharita, Pappagallo is one of the restaurants in Stresa that I think manages to appeal well to both tourists and locals. The restaurant is large, separated into several rooms, and also has an interior garden terrace covered with vines. That quiet terrace is one of those nice little 'hidden' spots that I love to find. On the night returning from Vienna however, it was chillier, and we dined inside, in a smaller front room of about 10 tables.

The rooms are simple and unpretentious, which I like. It all adds to the feeling of friendliness. This isn't a place to be impressed with the latest decor... it's a place to unwind, and relax ....(continued)
For decorations there are old photographs; I always find these black and white images of long-ago Stresa fascinating. Niche bookshelves hold old bottles of wine, also interesting for their historic value. In the center of the restaurant, near the maitre d's station, a wall holds a large bulletin board that is covered with currency from dozens of different countries, proof of Pappagallo's popularity with travelers from everywhere.

The restaurant promotes that they use mainly local and all fresh ingredients, and that the pasta is homemade. The dishes are not fancy, but they are good, in that home-cooking sort of way. Pizzas are baked in their wood-burning oven. Main courses are heavy on fish and seafood selections. Wines are generally Piemontese. Prices are all reasonable. Service and presentation are traditional. On the evening that I took these photographs, grissini, the slender crispy breadsticks, were served when we arrived. Our chianti was brought to the table in a decanter, along with two small glasses with which to serve ourselves. Our pizzas had the traditional 'Northern' thin crusts, mine covered with delicious prosciutto (order the pizza al prosciutto crudo if you like the look of mine; the other in the back is Giuseppe's pizza margherita).

And at the end we had a little bit of chilled limoncello. Always simple and perfect meals.

Here, from their website, is a map of Pappagallo's location in Stresa. From the lakefront, Via Margharita is the street to the right of the church. Walk down the street 100 meters, passing Buscion on your right (or stop in Buscion for a quick aperitivo first!); Pappagallo is on your right in the center of the long part of the street.

On these nights that I have mentioned we did not have a reservation. However, there were other nights, weekends or summer nights, when we tried to dine there and the restaurant was fully booked. Therefore, I'd say that if you know you want to eat there, if you know you would like to eat on the terrace (which does have a covering), or if you are eating with a large party, it would be better to make a prenotazione, a reservation. Now, in winter, I have noticed that Pappagallo is closed, so I will also say check first if you are hoping to come in the winter.

Taverna del Pappagallo

Restaurant - Pizzeria - Bar

Interior Garden

Via Principessa Margharita, 46

28838 Stresa

Telephone: +39 0323 30411

info@tavernapappagallo.com

www.tavernapappagallo.com

closed Wednesdays

Skiing: FYI -- An Archive Of Our Skiing Posts

2011-12-10T07:43:00.002-05:00

What follows is a selection of posts from this blog regarding skiing in Stresa and beyond. Rather than search the blog, I hope this archive makes it easier to start planning your skiing here. And while this covers the skiing part, don't forget to search the winter tag for other ideas to round out your trip.

Ski Season Opens on Mt. Mottarone

This post from December 2009 is about the opening of Mt. Mottarone for the winter 2009/2010 season. It offers a lot of information about the mountain, and relevant links to important websites. It also tells of several features at Mottarone that were new at the time, such as the chairlift and motorized sleds; even more activities have been added now, such as Alpyland.

Let's Go Skiing From Stresa

In this post from February 2009 I wrote about a few of the ski resorts that are within driving distance from Stresa. We featured three resorts in Italy: San Domenico, Domobianca, and Macugnaga, and two more resorts that area bit further afield, about a two-hour drive away in Switzerland: Leukerbad and Fleish-Eggishorn.

Mt. Mottarone in Winter - Stresa Goes Skiing

An even older post, from January 2009, gives another overview of Mt. Mottarone in winter, with some more statistics. And it reminds us about two very special facts about this mountain: That it is accessible in 18 easy minutes from the cableway in Stresa, and that it offers a unique and incomparable 360 degree view from the summit, of seven lakes and beyond, all the way to Milan.

Childrens Ski Lessons at Mt. Mottarone

In January 2011, Emma sent us lots of good information about the excellent children's ski program at Mt. Mottarone, called Stella Alpina. That information is here, along with some other helpful hints from Emma regarding equipment rentals and where to stop for quick snacks and meals.

And although linked from the individual posts, here once more is Mt. Mottarone's main website. Always check there for the most current prices, hours, and information:

www.mottaroneski.it

Please remember, when using these posts, that they are from past seasons. Therefore, current prices and some other information may have changed. But the basic information about the resorts should remain the same and I hope relevant and helpful for your winter planning.

News Bites: Little Bits Of News From Stresa

2011-12-07T07:33:00.001-05:00

just enough news to enjoy with your cappuccino

Today, our news is about snow and Scotland.

Just in time for the opening of the ski season, area ski resorts have been busy making snow, and finally, Mother Nature has done her part to help. Although limited, ski runs are open at Monte Moro and in the Centro del Fondo di Riale inValle Formazza, and more are set to follow. Photo courtesy of www.neveazzurra.org, which is an excellent source of ski information for the region (in Italian). continued....

And why Scotland? For this pleasant little review of Lago Maggiore and especially the Stresa area, from the Sunday, December 6 Scotsman. The writer spent a few days at the Hotel Majestic, in neighboring Verbania, and writes, "After a few hours on Lake Maggiore you might start to believe you're on the set of a 1960s Bond film." Read the entire review here: Travel: Maggiore, Italy

Winter: Alpyland's 2011-2012 Winter Hours

2011-12-03T07:28:00.000-05:00

Alpyland, the alpine toboggan ride which opened two years ago at the summit of Mt. Mottarone, has just posted its hours for the winter 2011-2012 season. They are as follows:

Wednesday, December 7, will be the opening day.
December 7 to 11: 10:00 AM to 5:00 PM.
December 17 and 18: 10:00 AM to 5:00 PM.
December 29 until January 8: Daily from 10:00 AM to 5:00 PM.
Remainder of January, February, and March: All weekends from 10:00 AM to 5:00 PM.... continued...

Prices are:
Single run, adult 13 to 64: 4.50 euro. 3-courses for the same age group: 12 euro
Single run, child 9 to 12 and adults over 65: 3 euro. 3-courses for the same: 8 euro

There are additional prices for larger numbers of runs, and some height restrictions do apply. See the website for the complete information: www.alpyland.com

Here are some wonderful photos, first posted last winter, of Alpyland in the snow, with stunning clear views of Lago Maggiore:

all photos courtesy of Alpyland website.

Winter: Outdoor Activities -- Ice Skating In Verbania

2011-11-27T20:45:00.000-05:00

For all those who believe that Stresa just goes to sleep during the winter, I hope that our recent posts are starting to show you that there is a wonder to Stresa also in these colder months when the summer attractions are closed. Here's another idea to add to your winter list, how about ice skating? ....

Ice skating is returning to Verbania this winter for an entire month. Beginning December 8, coinciding with the start of the Natale season, the Verbania Ice Arena will reopen. The temporary rink is set up in a location with views of Lago Maggiore, as seen in the photo above from last year. It will remain open until the end of the holiday season, on January 8.

Hours are as follows: Sunday morning from 10:00 AM until 1:00 PM. It will be open weekday mornings only for schools. In the afternoon the rink will be open everyday from 2:30 PM until 7:00 PM. The rink will be open only Saturday evening, from 9:00 PM until midnight. However, during the week of Christmas Eve until New Years Day it will be open every evening with these same hours. There are also very special hours on New Year's Eve, December 31, when the rink will remain open to celebrate the new year until 4:00 AM.

Prices:

Children up to 13 years: 3 euro to enter and 2 euro to rent skates and a helmet.
Over 13: 5 euro to enter and 2 euro to rent skates and a helmet.

Although officially open December 8, the rink will be inaugurated on December 7 at 2:30; all visitors at this time can test the ice for free!

Photo courtesy of pro-motion.it website

Winter: Stresa e' ... Natale 2011 -- The Christmas Schedule

2011-11-20T08:36:00.003-05:00

The 2011 Stresa Natale schedule has been published by the city's Comune. It will begin on December 7 with a special mass at Chiesa San Ambrogio, and it will continue with a long itinerary of events until January 6, 2012. Here is the Program:

Wednesday December 7:
11:00 AM: Special mass at the church.
2:00 PM: The Christmas market opens inside Il Centro Incontro Anziani. This annual special market sells crafts made by hand, with the proceeds going toward helping children in the third world.
2:30 PM: It's BORROMEO vs. VISCONTI in this soccer match at the Oratorio di Rosmini di Stresa.
5:00 PM: A traditional bonfire on the lungolago in front of Hotel Astoria. Free Vin Brule will be served.
6:00 PM: Mass at San Ambrogio.

Thursday, December 8: (Day of Immaculate Conception, Immacolata Concezione)
8:30 AM: Mass at San Ambrogio.
10:00 AM - 6:00 PM: Piazza Cadorna will be filled with Christmas animals and an old fashioned market selling typical and traditional local products. Roast and polenta will also be sold.
10:00 AM: Also in the Piazza, another small market from the Asilo Marzio Ostini (the nursery school).
10:00 AM: Mass at Chiesa San Michele, Stresa.
10:45 AM: A fund raising auction at Chiesa San Michele.
11:00 AM: Mass at San Ambrogio.
2:30 PM: Rosary and benediction at San Michele.
6:00 PM: Mass at San Ambrogio.
8:30 PM: Award ceremony for the Stresiani of the Year, Stresiani Benmerito 2011, at Palazzo dei Congressi.

MORE ...

Friday, December 16:
11:00 AM: Fun for the children in Piazza Cadorna with inflatable amusements.

Saturday, December 17:
11:00 AM: Fun for the children again in the Piazza with the inflatable amusements.
3:00 PM: An afternoon of dancing at Palazzina Liberty, with music provided by noted local musicians.
3:00 PM: Back in the Piazza, the Red Cross, Croce Rossa di Stresa, is providing hot chocolate, Vin Brule, and panettone.
3:00 PM: Santa arrives! Babbo Natale will arrive in the Piazza during the festivities.
5:00 PM: Food Festival! "Degustanto 2011 ... in Via Cavour e per le Vie di Stresa." The shops and businesses of Stresa invite you to celebrate the season with them, centered in Via Cavour, with special local products and regional specialties.

Sunday, December 18:
11:00 AM: Let the children enjoy the last day of the inflatable playland in Piazza Cadorna.
2:30 PM: The children of the nursery school Asino M. Ostini present a Christmas Recital at the Palazzo dei Congressi; admission is free.
3:00 PM: On Isola Bella, at Chiesa San Vittore, a special concert, "Insulae Harmonicae," I Solisti Dell'Orchestra Barocca di Novara, presenting music by Falconiero, Corelli, Leonarda, and Vivaldi. The concert is free, with any offering to the church, and transport is also provided free with motoscafi from Carciano, leaving at 1:30 and 2:30 PM, returning at 4:15 PM and at 5:00 PM.

Saturday, December 24:
9:00 PM: Mass at Chiesa di Someraro, with Vin Brule distributed after.
10:00 PM: Mass at Chiesa di Brisino, with Vin Brule distributed after.
10:30 PM: Living presepe in Magognino, and at 11:00 PM a mass. Following the mass a bonfire will warm worshippers, as will the distributed Vin Brule.
Midnight: Christmas mass at San Ambrogio and the Chiesa in Carciano. Following the mass Vin Brule, hot chocolate, and panettone will be distributed.
Midnight: Mass at the Chiesa in Levo. There will also be a bonfire and hot chocolate distributed.
Midnight: Mass at the Chiesa in Campino.

Friday, January 6:
The tradition continues!
3:00 PM: The procession of the Three Wise Men, Re Magi, through Stresa, leaving from Palazzo dei Congressi.

For the growing numbers of you who visit Stresa in the winter this should be very helpful. Take advantage of as many of the events as you can, and get a feel, and a 'taste', for what's it's like to be a Stresiani at Natale.

In addition, read all of the Winter links for more ideas, and check the calendar on the right.

Transportation: Moving Between Lago Maggiore And Lake Como

2011-11-09T08:19:00.002-05:00

It's easy to reach Stresa (A) from Milan (B), and it's easy to reach Como (C) from Milan, but how do you get from A to C?

A reader writes: "I will be in Stresa for 5 days and want to visit Como and Milan as well. How can I do this?"

Another reader writes: "I was curious if there are any one day tours to Bellagio from Stresa or is there an easy way to get there on my own."

And another writes: "We would like to make an excursion from Stresa to Madonna del Ghisallo - 12 k from Bellagio on Lake Como."

These are just a few of the many mails we get from readers who are visiting Stresa, but who also want to see Lake Como. And who can blame them? The only thing better than one gorgeous lake could be two gorgeous lakes. The problem is that traveling between the two, even between main cities on each, is not that simple to do. As you can see in the map above, although both lakes are very easy to reach from Milan or Milan's Malpensa airport, they are not easy to reach from each other ....

From Stresa, Lake Como is possible to visit as a day trip, either by car or private tour. For example, Tomassucci Travel in Stresa offers a three-lake one-day tour (http://www.stresatravel.com/Tomassucci_Web/the_three_lakes.htm).

But if you are wanting to travel between the two via public transportation, usually to stay in each, not just visit for a day, unfortunately you will need to make at least one transfer.

Here to give us precise directions on how best to do this is Chiara, who manages the blog Italy Lakes. This will help you to see two great lakes in one vacation, in the easiest ways possible to you.

Moving between Lake Como and Lake Maggiore

Lake Como and Lake Maggiore are the two most well known of northern Italy's lakes. Situated relatively close to one another, these lakes are as popular with Italians as they are with foreign visitors. Are you thinking about coming to Italy and visiting both? If so, here are a few tips which will help you do just that.

If you fly into at Malpensa airport, you can take the Malpensa Express train to get to either Lake Como or Lake Maggiore. The Malpensa Express (http://www.malpensaexpress.it/en/index.php) stops in Saronno, from which a connecting train will take you on to Como, or, if you want to visit Lake Maggiore, to Varese. It is also possible, and probably easier – no connections - to catch a coach directly from Malpensa airport which will drop you in the lakeside city of Como or in the town of Stresa on the shores of Lake Maggiore.

If you arrive in Italy by rail, you can use Italy's Ferrovie dello Stato rail service which will take you from central Milan to Como in about an hour (http://www.trenitalia.com/cms/v/index.jsp?vgnextoid=ad1ce14114bc9110VgnVCM10000080a3e90aRCRD). Alternativly, there is the Ferrovie Nord railway which has regular trains to the city of Como (http://www.ferrovienord.it/en/index.php) from Milan's Cadorna station or from the station of Saronno. Once in Como, it is possible to reach Lake Como's western shore by using the C-10 bus service which makes plenty of stops all along the Como-Colico side of the lake.

If you want to head for Como's eastern edge from the Lake Maggiore town of Stresa, then take the train to Milan's Central Station where you will need to change and catch a train on the Milan-Lecco-Sondrio-Tirano line. Trains on this line stop at Lecco, Varenna, Bellano and Colico.

To reach the western side of Lake Como, get off at Varenna and then take the ferry across the lake to Menaggio, Bellagio or Griante.

Finally, if you are travelling by car from Milan, follow the signs for Genoa, Milan, Lecco or Como.

Thanks Chiara! I know this is going to be very helpful to many. For lots more information on Lake Como and Lake Maggiore, and on northern Italy's other spectacular lakes, as well as what's on in terms of festivals, shows, concerts, exhibitions and sporting events, take a look at the Italy Lakes.net blog (http://www.italylakes.net/).

To book a holiday or a short stay in the Lake Como area, visit the English language website of Vacanze Lago (http://www.vacanzelago.com/en/index.php), a tour operator which specializes in organizing holidays on and around all of northern Italy's lakes.

Winter: Our 2011-2012 Winter List

2011-11-01T08:01:00.002-04:00

Mercatino di Natale in Domodossola

Many of you may think that Stresa is only a summer destination. But I've been very pleased this year to have many readers write to me that they are planning to visit in the winter, especially over the Christmas and New Year period. Some like to ski, some like the scenery; others simply like the quiet, warmth and solitude that the winter months offer. And some like to experience the many traditions of the season of Natale here.

Here is our list of some of the 2011-2012 winter events in Stresa and the surrounding area. I'll list them chronologically, and they will be added to the Stresa Sights calendar as well. This blog post will also be kept as an important link on the right sidebar, to reference throughout the season as you make your plans or check for updates. Whenever possible there are links to a site with more information about each event. Many of those sites are only available in Italian; I suggest trying a translator program such as Google Translate for the information. ... The list ...

December

2-4 Piazze Natalizie: Verbania, Intra
3-4 Mercatini di Natale: Christmas market; Caddo, Crevoladossola

3-18 La Vera Grotta di Babbo Natale: Santa's Grotto; Ornavasso
3-18 Mercato di Natale: Ornavasso, in conjunction with Santa's Grotto

3-January 6 The Largest Live Presepe in Piemonte; Ornavasso
4-24 Luci di Natale: Castelletto Ticino

8 Coccole di Natale: Christmas market; Dormelletto
8 - January 6: Stresa is Natale!: Stresa's Christmas Program

8-9 Mercatini di Natale: Christmas market; Macugnaga

10-11 Mercatini di Natale: Santa Maria Maggiore

11 AroNatale: Arona's Christmas market

16-18 Mercatini di Natale: Domodossola
17-18 Mercatini di Natale: Omegna, Lago d'Orta

Skiing Information
For those of you who plan to be here for a good amount of time and plan to ski, consider the VCO Ski Pass Provinciale, an annual ski pass which gives holders access to many of the Province ski mountains for the entire season. Information and purchasing links are found here: http://www.distrettolaghi.it/en/node/15679. It is offered on advance sale through November 15, all prices are listed here: http://www.distrettolaghi.it/sites/default/files/listino_VCO_2011-2012_def.pdf. You may want to also search the blog for previous posts about skiing and winter sports.

Much of this information is from the wonderful Distretto Laghi website. Grazie to them for always providing so much interesting coverage of all of the happenings in the Lago Maggiore area. Here's the direct link to their Christmas 2012 page: http://www.distrettolaghi.it/natale2011. A few of their pages can be seen in English; for the rest try to use a translator.

To read past posts about winter activities start here: winter

History: The Stresa-Mottarone Tram

2011-10-19T23:05:00.002-04:00

Have you seen the above poster on display or for sale in Stresa? It's everywhere, and it's beautiful, isn't it? One of those classic posters from the early part of the 20th century... artistic font, simple design, striking colors. But... what is it? Where is this 'ferrovia elettrica'? Why is Stresa celebrating its 100th anniversary this year? Wonder no more... Today I'll tell you the story of the old Stresa-Mottarone Tram.

For starters, the tram does not exist anymore. It was opened in 1911 and dismantled in 1963. But Stresa remembers it lovingly, and hence the marking of its century birthday. Secondly, there are still traces of this tram; small reminders of its having been here, if you know where to look. So let's go back in time to Stresa in the 1880s, when the city was experiencing a tourism boom, and the Guglielmina family, with a bold leap of faith, decided to build a luxury resort hotel at the summit of Mt. Mottarone. Alpine climbing and mountaineering were becoming popular; more and more people wanted to experience the views from the top of the mountain; and the Guglielmina family believed that a luxury resort would open this up to the wealthy tourists who were frequenting Stresa in those years.

They were right. The Grand Hotel Mottarone was inaugurated in 1884, and immediately became popular with royalty, celebrities and other wealthy travelers. Located at 1491 meters altitude, the hotel had three floors of rooms, a panoramic dining room, a parlour, a reading room, and, telephone connection with Stresa and Baveno. In the first two years the guest list included the princes of the House of Savoy -- Emanuele Filiberto, Duke of Puglia; Vittorio Emanuele, Count of Turin; Luigi Amadeo, infante of Spain; the Duke of Genoa, Tommaso Alberto Vittorio with his wife Isabella; Margherita of Savoy, Queen of Italy, with Prince Vittorio Emanuele; and Maria Elisabetta, Duchess of Genoa. Below is the hotel, photographed in the early 1900s.

The Grand Hotel Mottarone, as a tram approaches.

Impressive, especially considering that there was no paved road to reach the hotel at that time. The tram in the photograph was only a dream at that time. Guests were brought back and forth in carriages; the uphill journey by carriage took 4 1/2 hours and the downhill an hour less. An early reporter wrote in the Italian Alpine Magazine, No. 9, dated 1884, that, "... Foreigners arrived by day and by night: like a seaport ... in the mountains! ..." .....

North of Alpino the tram climbs Mt. Mottarone.

This was the station at Gignese.

The popularity of the mountain grew. And when the Grand Hotel made the decision to remain open during the winters, in 1908, skiing became another attraction drawing people to the mountaintop. After lengthy negotiations construction of the tram finally began in 1910. The small River Cree was covered and became what is now Via Roma. A Liberty-style roof was built in front of the Stresa boat imbarcadero; this became the Stresa end station of the tram. Work progressed quickly, and in August of 1910 the magazine Verbania reported, " ... The laying of the superstructure of the triple-track line is already beyond the Panorama: by the end of August it will reach Alpino, at the beginning of November it should reach the Mottarone ... The rack-and-pinion locomotive departs, turns, stops, whistling: puffing and blowing it climbs up, pushing forward the carriages laden with meterial. It crosses trenches, appears on the flanks of the mountain, crosses bridges, skims the Stresa-Gignese road, disappears into the woods, launching out steamy columns of smoke." Alpino, for modern reference, is the location of the Alpinia Giardino Botanico. And the tram opened for business in 1911. It was a rack-and-pinion railway, also called a cog railway. The trains were fitted with cog wheels or pinions that meshed with the rack, allowing the train to operate on the steep hills. The 10 kilometer trip from Stresa took 1 hour 15 minutes, making six stops, at Vedasco-Binda, Vezzo, Gignese-Levo, Alpino, Borromeo, and finally Mottarone.

A rack-and-pinion railway track.

Even before the tram opened Mottarone was becoming very popular as a ski resort. In 1909 the Mottarone Ski Club was founded, one of the first in Italy. The mountain gained the nickname "The Ski Slopes of the Milanese." There was a special early train that left Milan for Stresa, transporting as many as 1000 skiers at a time. Then the tram brought them up the mountain. The Milan Ski Club began offering lessons on the fields below the summit. Refreshment stands and more restaurants and hotels were opened. And life went on in this way for much of the first half of the twentieth century for the Stresa-Mottarone tram.

But it wasn't without troubles or interruptions. Several factors greatly affected the tram in those years. There were wars. And there was progress. The first World War deprived the area of both tourists and staff, most of whom had been called up for war service. The Borromeo family fought to keep the tram going by using it for the transport of goods. The 1930s saw another decline, after some years of prosperity, and by 1941 the tram was operating in the red. Competition arrived in the form of paved roads to the summit. And then, in 1943, the Grand Hotel Mottarone burnt to the ground after an electrical short circuit. In 1946 the Stresa terminal was moved inland, near to Piazza Cadorna, and away from the lake and the Liberty-style station. It left the area at the lake to now be used for car and bus parking, which was becoming increasingly more important. By 1959 the Borromeo family finished the clearing and paving of a direct road from Stresa to the summit. In 1963 the last tram trip was made. It took only a few months to demolish all of the tracks, starting in the town centre and then up the mountain. Some of the carriages were sold for exhibition purposes. And the Stresa-Mottarone cableway opened in 1970; the journey to the summit now takes only 18 minutes.

The old Stresa tram station, gone now...

...And the Mottarone station, now just a ruin, fenced in near the new chairlift.

And where can we find traces of the old tram today? What is its legacy? First of all, the development that took place around Alpino and other stops along the mountain. From farmland at the turn of the twentieth century these have become thriving towns with many villas, hotels, restaurants, the golf course, and of course, the Alpinia Giardino. Think of the tram when you walk on Via Roma. The track had been right there, and the River Cree still flows underground on its way to the lake. Several of the carriages have been brought "home." There are three at the 7 Camini campsite in Alpino, and another at the Tranquillo campsite in Baveno. And there is the L1 trail from the summit of Mottarone down to Alpino and then Stresa. It is the path of the tram, and remember how we can see the posts still in the ground in certain places.

This old tram carriage is on display at the Transport Museum in Ranco.

Here's a yellow tram carriage in its new life at the Tranquilla campsite in Baveno.

Old posts from the rack-and-pinion railway along the L1 trail from Mottarone to Stresa.

Older Stresiani can tell you about riding the tram when they were children. And all Stresiani can tell you that it is a part of their history, per sempre, for always, and so they mark and celebrate its 100th birthday, even if it is no longer here.

You may also be interested in reading:

Walking the L1 Trail

The River Cree

News Bites: Little Bits Of News From Stresa

2011-10-16T08:26:00.005-04:00

This Sunday, to enjoy with our cappuccino, how about some yummy food related news 'bites' about chocolate, pumpkins, and a tomato.

__________

I know where I'd like to be from October 30 to November 1! I'd be right here in central Stresa, because that's when the Fiera dal Cioccolata Artigianale, the Exhibition of Chocolate Artisans, will be in town. All around Piazza Cadorna, and also along the Lungolago, you'll be able to find all sorts of chocolates and sweets, from local typical products of the region and other stands where new chocolate creations will be shown and offered. I'm hoping for samples .....

__________

...And look at this tomato plant... On the other side of this wall is the sandy beach at Lido Stresa. Someone on the beach probably ate a tomato and a part fell to the ground, whether deliberately or not, which left some seeds, and they, pretending to be in a tomato field, have managed to grow...

grazie a Andrea Ferri for this photo and words.

__________

Omegna will be celebrating la zucca, the pumpkin, all next weekend on October 22 and 23 in their annual festival. In the Omegna neighborhood of Cusiana, in the piazza, there will be many pumpkin related events, in addition to the hobby and antiques market already there: A sale of pumpkins, food stands preparing more than a dozen featured pumpkin dishes, including the famous in the region pumpkin risotto prepared in Nigogliotta and gorgonzola polenta. In the afternoon cakes and coffee will be served. Folk music bands will be playing. Wine shops will offer tasting events to pair with the pumpkins. And several restaurants in town will offer themed evenings centered around the pumpkin.

__________

Some of my favorite things... I would definitely not mind a themed dinner revolving around pumpkins, risotto and chocolate! Buona domenica, enjoy your Sunday...

Shopping: Let's Revisit Wunder Kammer

2011-10-07T13:58:00.001-04:00

I've just seen some new photos Giampiero took inside Wunder Kammer, his shop on Isola Bella, and so I think it's time that we all take another visit there. Readers of Stresa Sights already know that Wunder Kammer is one of my favorite shops here, and that we're always recommending it to people who are searching for something different to remember their Stresa vacation by. In the three years since it has been open the shop has been building up a nice reputation for its eclectic collection of fine crafts and handmade artworks. And more and more of the items are related to the islands and Stresa in some way. The unicorn figures prominantly in many items, like in the throw pillows in the photo above. Statues and architectural details from the Borromeo palace are also used as inspiration often, as in the photographs and plaques. While the images are of the familiar islands and views, they are different from any other photos you'll find of Stresa for sale. But think how a unicorn will always remind you of Stresa ....

This building is more than 500 years old by the way... just look at those beams! Giampiero and his wife can always be found in the shop, and they will love to tell you about the different pieces and how they were made. Most of the photographic art was actually taken by Giampiero himself. It's difficult in these photos of the shop to see the details on the individual pieces. For this take a look at the new Wunder Kammer blog.

Giampiero is also the founder and director of the annual art exhibit in Stresa entitled "Lo Spirito del Lago." Each summer, this exhibit brings together modern artists from all around Europe, presenting their art in various venues around the islands and in Spazio Luparia in central Stresa. This exhibit, which will definitely make you think, is always one of my favorite things to see during the summer. I LOVE the title of this past summer's exhibition: "Solo i Pesci Morti Seguono La Corrente." Meaning, "Only Dead Fish Swim With the Current." Meaning, the exhibition was definitely not like your average one. The same can be said for the items at Wunder Kammer. They definitely are not average.

Here again is the link to Wunder Kammer's new blog: In addition to the interior photos there is a slideshow of some of the more unique products in the shop, and another slideshow of the recent Lo Spirito exhibition:

http://wunderkammer-isolabella.blogspot.com/2011/09/il-mio-negozio.html

Here's the post from April 2009 that tells a little more about the shop and Giampiero.

And for another example of Giampiero's work, here is a collection of photos Giampiero took in the Borromeo gardens on a foggy day in early 2011.

Walks: The L1 Trail From Mottarone To Stresa

2011-10-03T06:59:00.008-04:00

Here's a great walk for any nice-weather day. The L1 walking trail is the most direct trail from Stresa to the summit of Mt. Mottarone. People walk it up from Stresa, or, as we chose to do, in the much less strenuous direction, from the top down. But to hike down one first must arrive up. From Stresa, take the cablecar from the Carciano boat station. The 20-minute ride, which includes switching cablecars at the intermediate Alpino station, carries you 1491 meters up the mountain. The Alpino station is where the Giardino Botanico Alpinia gardens are located, 300 meters from the cableway.

After arriving at the top cableway station, the last few meters to the summit are reached by the relatively new chairlift, which was added only a couple of years ago. As you see, you can also ride the chairlift back down to the cableway. On the left of the photo a small piece of the Alpyland track is visible. The toboggan run is the latest addition to Mottarone's attractions, having opened in the summer of 2010, and it's been hugely popular right from the start.

Ah, the summit! From here there are the famous 360 degree views of Italy, Switzerland, and the seven nearby lakes. There is a semicircle of simple wooden benches cut into the earth. It's a perfect spot to eat a picnic lunch or just sit for a bit. Notice the hazy effect of the air over the lake. Even on seemingly very clear days this is common; we are actually high enough to be in a bit of clouds and moisture. On windier days this blows away and the view can be clearer. The island you see in the lake far below is Isola Madre. Isola Bella and Isola dei Pescatori are a bit out of range in my photo, under the view of the mountain, but you'll see them when you're there. The promontory of land behind Isola Madre is Verbania, and to its right the lake continues up into Switzerland.

In this photo you can see how we are level with these small clouds. We began walking in this direction, towards the people in the distance. The rooftop at the left edge of the photo is Ristorante Casa della Neve, a place we've spoken about on the blog as the spot for drinking Fil da Fer and eating traditional mountain specialties. At that point you can pick up the L1 sentiero, the trail, and follow the signs.

The path takes us into the woods, and they quickly become fairly deep. I should mention it is cooler up here, and even more so when you enter the woods. But it becomes warmer again as we descend. In other words, think layers. We don't see the lake at all as the path twists and turns down the mountain. It's never steep, and it's always wide enough; it's a nice descent. You'll pass people who have walked up, and you'll be sharing the path with mountain bikers heading down. It's quite popular to rent bicycles from Andrea at the Bicico rental shop at the cableway base. Bicycles can be brought up with the cablecar and Andrea also leads tour groups down for those who prefer a guide. You may also encounter horseback riders here; the stables are located at the Alpine intermediate station.

This higher portion of the trail is heavily covered in gravel. Occasionally you will notice steel posts embedded in the ground, as in this photo. The tops have been painted red, to make them more visible to hikers and bikers. These are remnants of a chapter from Stresa's past: the Stresa - Mottarone tram, which opened in 1911 and closed in 1970. Those pegs at one time held the track rails, and indeed, for much of the walk the L1 we are walking on is the old tram route.

There are other trails that branch off from the L1, longer walks leading to other peaks or down to other towns. We continue to follow the signs for the L1 and Stresa.

Eventually we leave the woods and encounter open fields. See the posts with the orange conical tops? Another interesting bit of trivia to know while you walk: These are markers for the metanodotto. This is the natural gas pipeline. This gas pipeline runs all the way from southern Italy, and if you followed it up through here it would lead you into Switzerland, then Germany, until reaching finally the Netherlands.

We've gone from dense trees to open fields. You can actually see the vegetation change along the way. We have walked slowly; it has taken us about two hours to reach the intermediate Alpino station, which you can see in the photo below. The horse stables are out of range to the left of the building. Here we have picked up the paved road again, and there is ample parking. The Giardino Botanico Alpinia is found around the bend to the right, 300 meters along.

Before returning to Stresa we stopped for a rest at the small Bar Villino Beniamino. It's warmer here, and they have a row of wooden picnic tables with umbrellas along the railing. From here we watched the cablecars come and go, while refreshing ourselves with two cold beers.

This quirky bar has some interesting 'art' and yummy simple fare. We decided to finish our walk at this point... maybe the beers had something to do with that... so we ordered a plate of melon and prosciuto, another of bresaola. It was a perfect pick-us-up after the walks down. If you however, should decide to continue walking down the L1, the good news is that the remaining section of the trail to Stresa is shorter than what we have just done.

There are countless variations you can do, and many walks in the area, of all different lengths and abilities. Trail maps can be picked up at the Tourist Office and are posted in the cableway station. Have you taken a memorable walk around Lago Maggiore that you'd like to share with us? I'm always looking for a new one to try...

Search the walks section for more posts

Search here for more posts about Mt. Mottarone

Reader's Questions: Wheelchair Rentals

2011-09-30T13:53:00.004-04:00

This reader needed to rent a wheelchair for her father. She wrote:

Q: Do you know of anyone with a wheelchair that we could borrow or hire? That would be so good...

Although we supplied her with a couple of rental suggestions, in the end she was able to find a wheelchair with the help of her hotel (the wonderful La Luna nel Porto). Marisa at La Luna directed the reader to the Stresa chapter of the Red Cross, and they were able to provide her with exactly what she needed. Now she has kindly written back, to share her information with us and pass it along to our readers, knowing that it is going to help others of you. She writes: ....

A: Just to report back that the wheelchair supplied by the Red Cross (based near the convention center/civic offices?) was superb -- brand new and perfect for the job as it folded up when on the boat or in restaurants. In the end it cost us a donation so I was very happy to give them 15 euros a day.

The Red Cross office spoken about is called the Croce Rossa di Stresa. The office is near the Palazzo dei Congressi, on Via Cigala Fulgosi in the center of Stresa, and they can be reached through their website: www.stresa.net/cri/.

If that does not work for you for whatever reason, here are a couple of other resources to try:

This company, Ortopedia, is in Verbania; they rent and sell many medical items. http://www.ortopediadurso.com/prestazioni-e-servizi

This is a large supply company in Torino that rents many medical needs. They may be able to arrange for delivery of certain items to Stresa: .lupo-medicosanitari.it

In general, Stresa makes every attempt to be very wheelchair accommodating. But if you have specific concerns it is best to check with your hotel or accommodations regarding your specific needs.

Memories: A Graceful Evening

2011-09-19T07:01:00.004-04:00

Marco, at the wheel of the Riva Ariston he rebuilt.

This is a story about a beautiful boat, an enchanting evening, and some lovely friends. And since we got to know Fabri in the last post, this is also an opportunity for you readers to get to know some more of the people I talk about here on Stresa Sights.

The story starts years ago, when I first started visiting Stresa. I was introduced to Marco and Emma on that first trip. Marco is a boat restorer straordinario, extraordinary. He has had his own cantiere nautico, his workshop, called Cantiere Nautico Aghemio, for many years, and he has become a specialist in the restoration of the lovely wooden boats called Riva. It's the kind of boat you can imagine George Clooney zipping around in.

Over the years I've watched the restoration of a couple of Rivas, including this one. When I first saw it, it consisted of nothing more than the original shell. Each time I'd visit Stresa we would stop at the cantiere, see the works, and Marco would explain each new piece that had been installed, each new step in the process. Each part is painstakingly rebuilt from original parts or built to recreate the original. This Riva, a 1962 Ariston 421, took three and a half years to renovate. I watched it go from this:

to this:

Now named Grace, the Riva was finished this summer, and an evening had been organized at the Verbano Yacht Club in Stresa to present the finished boat ....
Marco prepared a slideshow and explained the works in Italian while Emma translated his words into English for the international crowd. A good-sized group of family, friends, and boat lovers came to enjoy the evening and congratulate Marco, who was deservedly glowing.

After the presentation corks were popped, champagne poured, and we mingled in the cool night air. Across the lake Isola Bella loomed directly in front of us; this is the closest spot on shore to the island. Soon we sat for a dinner of risotto, lake fish, and desserts. Oh and wine of course...

Having watched the progress of this Riva over the years I was delighted to be a part of the celebration. It made me think how things have changed... A boat transforms from a shell into a sleek masterpiece. I change from a tourist in Stresa into, if not quite a Stresiana then at least an accepted part of the town. Marco and Emma change from strangers and then acquaintances into dear friends, and the crowd is filled with others that I've come to know, thanks to them.

This was how I spent my last summer evening in Stresa this year. Looking at these photos from the evening I feel very content. A celebration, of the end of a project, and the end of a wonderful summer in Stresa. An end, sure, but it didn't really feel like one. It felt more like the last scene of a good movie, when everything has come together just perfectly, but we know the story will continue well, even though the film has stopped. It was like that.

I share this story with you because from the start I have been amazed at the beauty of the Riva and the craftsmanship of Marco's work. Maybe you will think of this as you watch boats skimming along on Lago Maggiore. If you want to see more photos from Cantiere Nautico Aghemio take a look here And don't hesitate to say hi if you see any of us in town... you're friends now too...

Tre Domande: Three Questions With Fabri Of Maggiore Discovery

2011-09-17T14:48:00.004-04:00

Fabri

Anyone who has been reading and following Stresa Sights, and many of you who have written to us, know about Fabri. And some of you have met him in person. Fabri and his wife Yvette run Maggiore Discovery, which is, as they like to call it, a tour management company. They see themselves as tour managers, not tour guides. I've gotten to know Fabri well through all the very diverse requests we have received from readers, and Fabri has been able to fulfill each and every one of them and far surpass everyone's expectations. So, I thought it's time that you get to know him a bit better. Recently we shared a lovely lunch at Ristorante Mamma Mia in Stresa, and here is the interview that came from that talk:

1. I know that your goal is to give people a different experience when they are in Stresa. What do you mean by that?

Our concept is based on 3 points:

Customer service: But not just in a jargon way like lots of companies use it today. We love what we do, we love where we are, we want people to enjoy their time here and we know we can play a part in that and thrive on that responsibility. We are not in the business of filling a bus or a boat and take people from A to B because it earns us money.

We are here to be personal, to take people places that will leave them with great memories, to listen to where people want to go, and what they want to see and do.

Being Unique:

There are many other local agencies that do excursions to places that are mainly away from the Lake, and they have been doing so for many years. Nothing wrong with that. They do it very well and are successful doing that.

There is so much scope here to do so many things, that we find no need to just follow on what others do.

We offer alternative ways to explore the area.

Our ideas are based on what we, as visitors, would like to see here, how would we like to see it, but more importantly Will it be memorable to us.

Even the destinations that we have in common with other agencies, we do it in a different way to them.

But the idea of being unique is not just going where others don’t go. It is also looking at how we present and deliver our product making sure we keep it fresh and relevant.

Added Value: Every trip, has to have a reason to be, a logical way of doing it, and added value to it. It is not just going to a Market or a Wine and Cheese tasting.

It is making sure that there are things on those tours that will surprise you and that you were not expecting, and leaves you feeling great about what you've done or seen ....

2. So give us some examples of experiences like this that you offer.

The examples I am going to give you are two that come to mind now,and left us reassured about the way we work.

We took a family from America to our Wine Cheese and History tour, and the eldest of the family who was 83 was saying to our host how she has travelled so much through the years, and this has by far been the best experience she has ever had. She doesn’t drink wine (just a glass of Port at 5pm every day), and she said all this with a great smile.

That to me are the moments I work for.

Another example was organizing a wedding for a British couple, They had this James Bond theme in mind, and had gone to a lot of effort to make sure all their guests got into their role and had a great time.

Although it was a fun theme, it was still a wedding, which it is the most important day in people’s lives. It requires a lot of work and communication to deliver it the way they dreamt it and not in any other way.

The amazement, smiles, laughs and thanks we have seen and received that day will stay with us for a long time.

Like these two examples we have many but the point we are trying to make is we are here to ensure people get to live their holiday the way they want and even exceed their expectations.

3. You are also branching out into vacation rentals and have some very special properties available. Tell us briefly about those.

We treat our new vacation rentals and hotel accommodation with the same philosophy as we do with our trips.

We have not looked at a hotel and said, well it is a 4-star hotel it should be good enough.

We looked at what they have to offer, make sure it represents value for money, to us service is paramount, so we have checked that the teams in place work to deliver experiences and not just serve breakfast.

With our rentals, we have looked at places, and found apartments that from the moment that you arrived there, you feel in Paradise. We looked once again at where would we like to stay and we went for apartments with Lake View, homely feeling, excellent facilities and great availability by the Landlords to sort any unexpected things that may occur.

We also organise transfer to and from airports or train stations, car rental, conferences, meals and any event required.

All following the premise that we put people’s wishes and ideas first, and work round those.

Thank you for giving us a forum in which to explain what we are all about, and do carry on with your wonderful blog that has helped many people have a great time when they visit Lake Maggiore.

Fabri

Fabri and Yvette (and the now-born Natalia)

Thanks so much Fabri, for taking the time to chat with us! I'm sure everyone has enjoyed getting to know you a bit better. And I know that when they want to take their time here in Stresa to another level they'll be contacting you through us, or they'll take a look at all the great things you offer at:

maggiorediscovery.com

Oh, and the lunch at Ristorante Mamma Mia was buonissimo! :-)

Get to know more people in Stresa in our other interviews here.

Transportation: Rent A Scooter

2011-09-12T08:14:00.002-04:00

Vroom vroom! Doesn't it just seem soooo European to travel by scooter or motorbike? Audrey Hepburn did it in Rome, ...

And Audrey Tautou in Paris in the film Amelie...

And this summer, woo-hoo! I did it too, in Stresa!

Such a great way to travel! ....

Maybe you too have always dreamt of exploring Stresa and the Lago Maggiore area on a scooter? Well maybe now is the perfect time to do so, with less tourist traffic on the roads and lower temperatures. I often receive mail with requests for rental information, so for those of you who have been asking, and those of you who may be interested, I've recently come across Living Lake Bike and Scooter Rental, in Verbania. Previously a bicycle rental company, Living Lake has expanded into scooter rentals due to popular demand, and offers several styles of scooters for rent. They will provide you with two well-fitting helmets per each scooter, as well as liability insurance, an antitheft device, and emergency road assistance in case of breakdown. And they also will discuss private guided tours and private scooter dropoffs with you if you are interested in such services. Right now the closest pickup/dropoff point for their scooters is in Intra, Verbania.

Some of the Living Lake scooter fleet.

Remember, unlike the two Audreys above, you and I, and everyone else in Italy, must wear a helmet by law when riding a scooter or motorbike. All driving rules are the same as for cars, except that it is easier to overtake on a scooter and therefore traveling in traffic takes less time. And scooters put an end to parking nightmares. Want to try this exciting and fun mode of transportation? Check out the Living Lake website, which has all the information you'll need to know.

Allora andiamo! Let's go! Ciao ciao! Vrooooom ...

Living Lake Bike and Scooter Rental
http://www.livinglake.net/
info@livinglake.it

+39 335 5946403 or +39 349 5446819

News: Stresa Marks The Tenth Anniversary Of 9/11

2011-09-10T16:18:00.001-04:00

On the occasion of the tenth anniversary of the attack on the Twin Towers in New York, the Comune Administration of Stresa will remember the victims of Sept. 11 with a ceremony Sunday morning at 9:30, at the monument to the Twin Towers on the Lungolago in front of the Hotel des Iles Borromees. In front of the volunteer firefighters of Stresa, a garland will be placed on the memorial ...

It's important to remember that Stresa was the first city in all of Italy to erect a monument remembering the victims of that day. The beautiful statue is the work of the Albanian Sculptor Ilirjan Xhixha; another copy of the statue resides in New York City. All citizens, tourists and visitors are invited to attend the ceremony on Sunday morning.

Link to the older post about this statue here.

Food & Wine: Some Lovely Aperitivo Spots

2011-09-07T09:31:00.002-04:00

Aperitivo... perhaps one of my favorite words in Italian. And one of my favorite things to do in Stresa. On a Friday afternoon after a long work week... Meeting friends before going to dinner... Watching a sunset... As a transition between a long day of sightseeing and a relaxing evening... There are so many good reasons to stop and make this pause in your day. And there are so many wonderful spots in which to have an aperitivo. Here are some spots I've recently enjoyed aperitivi in:

This is my classic, can't-go-wrong aperitivo. Spritz at the Lido Baveno on a Friday afternoon after a long work week. No better way to get in a weekend mood. Lido is a popular beach all day long, and becomes louder and club-like late in the evenings on the weekends, but in between is just perfect for me.

Al Buscion... Casual, comfortable, and close to everything in central Stresa. Massimo will always recommend good wines he has on hand, but Giuseppe and I usually go for our signature choices of Guinness and Prosecco. At aperitivo time they come with a few yummy stuzzichini, little snacks.

The beautiful glass of white wine that I enjoyed in Cannero Riviera at the restaurant at the Park Hotel, with a late lunch, after a day of sightseeing on a tour with Fabri. This was definitely the transition back into relaxing mood variety. Perfect...

And, although I'm not often a beer drinker, I tried this giant German beer at Bar Verbanella. The terrazzo on the lake behind Verbanella is quite bright and refreshing, with its somewhat incongruous but fun tropical umbrellas. The specialty at Verbanella is their Bellini, and their bartender is known for mixing some of the best cocktails in town. Keep Verbanella in mind for Thursday evenings in the summer too, when there is free Jazz all evening long.

Ahhh... another beautiful sunset, another Spritz. Where was this one? At my new favorite aperitivo spot: the brand-new rooftop terrace at La Palma Hotel. And the best news? This bar is open to the public. Just ask at the front desk to go up to the roof. La Palma has, in my opinion, one of the best views of the lake, and now, the most gorgeous roof.

More on this very special new spot in an upcoming post... For now, I leave you to keep planning your trip to Stresa. And remember to leave time for aperitivo...

Everyone takes a break for Bellinis!

How about you? Will your aperitivo be a Bellini? A Spritz? Beer? And where will it be? Do you have a favorite aperitivo spot in Stresa?

Food: Autumn Sagre -- Food Festivals

2011-09-04T06:49:00.001-04:00

If summer around Lago Maggiore is all about music festivals, then autumn is definitely all about the sagre, the food festivals. I've recently added several sagra dates to the Stresa Sights calendar. I'll continue to add dates as they are set. Many towns arrange a sagra, which usually extends over a weekend. Going on right now is the Sapori di Gusto, in Baveno from September 2 to 4. Arona has events scheduled every weekend throughout September. So far on the list are sagre centered around mushrooms, blueberries, grapes, apples, as well as several that will feature many regional foods.
I'm getting my information from the Distretto Turistico dei Laghi website, where Filippo is continuously adding new sagre to the list. Also on the site is a list of local hotels and B&Bs near the sagre sites that are offering special weekend packages and deals for the festival weekends. Take a look... buon appetit!

Distretto 2011 Sagra Calendar:
http://www.distrettolaghi.it/autunnocongusto

Hotel deals and packages:
http://www.distrettolaghi.it/strutture

The Distretto site, by the way, is a wonderful resource for information about the lake area, extending much farther afield than we do here on Stresa Sights. It is published first in Italian but the language can be changed to English, and you might try a translator on your computer as well. You can also mail them with questions or requests for more information here: http://www.distrettolaghi.it/contact

Just For Fun: The Tall Guy

2011-08-31T07:26:00.001-04:00

Are you going to the Stresa market in Piazza Capucci this Friday? If so, and if you enter or exit from Via Bolongaro, then watch out for the tall guy! He's there every Friday, just next to the ATM, standing still, silent, and statue-like as people walk past him, many totally unaware of his presence. Then, he chooses a victim... someone in conversation perhaps, or someone standing with their back to him... and suddenly he will spring to life with a pat on their back or a tap on their shoulder. He causes many a good scare and lots of loud screams and laughter. And so I warn you about him. Watch for him and let him choose another victim... you just go and enjoy the market!

But if he's made you smile, drop some monete, some coins, into his can; he'll appreciate it!

Music: Stresa Festival 50th Anniversary Autumn Concert Schedule

2011-08-24T07:52:00.003-04:00

While we're talking about music, it's time for another reminder about the Stresa Festival and a list of the remaining concerts. This third part of the annual festival is dedicated to celebrating the 50th anniversary of the event. It's been 50 years since the first festival was organized in Stresa by Italo Trentinaglia, you can read about that in this post, and if you are in Stresa you can stop by the Palazzo dei Congressi now through September 4 to see the special exhibition celebrating the fifty years of the Settmane Musicali di Stresa.

This autumn part of the Festival, entitled 'Notes from a Journey', Note di Viaggio, began last Sunday with the concert 'Happy Birthday Festival!' at the Congressi by the Stresa Festival Orchestra, with Festival director Gianandrea Noseda conducting. Burvenich, Sostakovic and Brahms were played. Monday evening fortunate concert-goers listened to 'Brass on the Island', performed by London Brass in the Loggia del Cashmere on Isola Madre. And last night, 'One Night at Bach's', at the Chiesa Madonna di Campagna in Verbania....

Tonight, Italian Wonderbrass will be performing 'World of Sound', Mondo di Suoni, at Castello Visconteo in Vogogna. And these are the concerts that remain on the 2011 schedule:

Thursday August 25 – 8.00 p.m.

Congress Hall – Stresa
LUCIA DI LAMMERMOOR
by G. Donizetti
semi-staged version
Elena Mosuc, John Osborn,
Franco Vassallo, Riccardo Zanellato, Alessandro Liberatore, Luca Casalin, Arianna Vendittelli
Ars Cantica Choir
Marco Berrini, choir master
Stresa Festival Orchestra
Gianandrea Noseda, conductor

Friday August 26 – 8.30 p.m.
Villa Ponti – Arona
Dancing tales, Racconti Danzanti
Mendelssohn-Bartholdy, Schubert, Puccini, Dvořák, Mifune, Stravinskij, Schröder, Šostakovič
Apollon Musagète Quartett

Saturday August 27 – 6.00 p.m.
Chiesa del Crocifisso, Collegio Rosmini – Stresa
Bach: Sonatas and Partitas, Sonate e Partite, first half
I HALF
Isabelle Faust, violin

Saturday August 27 – 8.30 p.m.
Chiesa del Crocifisso, Collegio Rosmini – Stresa
Bach: Sonatas and Partitas , Sonate e Partite, second half
II HALF
Isabelle Faust, violin
Sunday August 28 – 8.30 p.m.
Congress Hall – Stresa
Mehta, Israel Philharmonic Orchestra
Webern, Liszt, Čajkovskij
The Israel Philharmonic Orchestra
Zubin Mehta, conductor

Monday August 29 – 8.30 p.m.
Tapestry Hall– Isola Bella
Simon Trpceski
Chopin, Shahov, Bach/Liszt, Liszt
Simon Trpceski, piano

Tuesday August 30– 8.30 p.m.
Congress Hall – Stresa
Noseda, Filarmonica della Scala
Weber, Beethoven, Dvořák
Leif Ove Andsnes, piano
Filarmonica della Scala
Gianandrea Noseda, conductor
Thursday September 1 – 8.30 p.m.
Tapestry Hall – Isola Bella
Rachmaninoff soirée
Rachmaninoff
Pavel Berman, violin
Enrico Dindo, cello
Alexander Romanovsky, piano

Friday September 2 – 8.30 p.m.
Congress Hall – Stresa
Improvvisando
Final concerto of the masterclass of improvisation
Enrico Pieranunzi Trio

Saturday September 3 – 8.30 p.m.
Auditorium "La Fabbrica" – Villadossola
Baroque Europe
Telemann, Vivaldi, Bach, Corelli
Akademie für Alte Musik Berlin

Sunday September 4 – 8.30 p.m.
Congress Hall – Stresa
Chailly, Gewandhausorchester
Beethoven, Mendelssohn-Bartholdy
Maria João Pires, piano
Gewandhausorchester Leipzig
Riccardo Chailly, conductor

THE CALENDAR IS SUBJECT TO CHANGES

There are links here to each concert, with information about remaining seats and purchasing tickets. Or visit the main website of the Festival at: http://www.stresafestival.eu/en/festival/festival_2011/programma_2011.html
for much more information.

Music: Summer Nights In Via A.M. Bolongaro

2011-08-18T06:42:00.001-04:00

I could hear the music from my room on Tuesday evening, and so I went outside to discover the source. I found it in narrow Via A.M. Bolongaro, where the cobblestone road was closed to cars and a band had been set up directly in the street, in front of Bar Caffe Moka. People quickly filled the wooden tables Marcello has outside the bar; they were ordering pizzas, beers and wine.

On the other side of the street Gelateria K2 (which is pronounced Gelateria Kappa Due here btw) had a long line of gelato seekers. And the white chairs in the photo below are outside Caffe' 5, next to Caffe Moka, another excellent viewing and aperitivo spot.

Via Bolongaro is the street on the right side of the restaurant Osteria degli Amici, in Piazza Possi. If you don't normally make a wander down Via Bolongaro in Stresa, you should start to include it on your walks. It's a normal residential street, used by locals as much as tourists. It is also where the Post Office, the Uffico Postale, is located.

There is a different band each Tuesday night throughout the summer season. This one played a great selection of blues, rock, and classics that pleased everyone in the crowd, regardless of their home countries. The music began around 8 PM, and finished a bit after 11, with an encore of U2's One Love. Definitely a fun, casual spot to hang out and enjoy Stresa on a nice summer evening.

Always keep your eyes, and ears, open around Stresa. There is always so much music, both scheduled and somewhat impromptu, both inside and outside.

Shopping Tour: Luino Wednesday Market

2011-08-11T06:42:00.003-04:00

I joined Fabri on one of his most popular excursions -- the boat trip to the weekly market in Luino. It's the largest market anywhere on the lake and takes place each Wednesday, all year round, covering the entire center and lakefront of the town. Luino by car is about halfway around Lago Maggiore from Stresa, on the Lombardia side, and to reach it by car could take two hours. Arriving with Fabri by boat is shorter, and oh so much nicer. He puts together a wonderful day:

We met at the small docking area directly in front of La Palma Hotel. This is the rocky beach where many of the water taxis and small boats embark and disembark. This was our motoscafo, a typical one here on the lake. It holds about 40 passengers comfortably. We all had a great view out the windows to take photos.

Luino was busy with many boats large and small. The large ferry is the Venezia, which can also be taken from Stresa to reach the market as well as other towns along the lake.

And Luino was busy! Much better that we had arrived by boat ... had we tried by car we would have been stuck in traffic jams on either side of town. Trying to get through town by car, or to park, seemed impossible. Even motorbikes and scooters were packed in so closely that their owners had trouble locating their own in the jumble.

I would need aerial photographs to give any indication of the size of this market, or the density of the crowds. Believe me when I say it is massive. So massive and crowded that I quickly became disoriented as to my whereabouts in the town, and ultimately found myself in a location on the lake far from where I thought I was.

But if you like markets, or market bargains, this is the best. All the usual items: enough scarfs, shoes and bags to adorn every woman in Piemonte I think. Men's clothing better represented than I've seen at other markets. And some things I haven't seen at most: a woman with a microphone doing her own 'infomercial' for handy kitchen products...

Actually a great selection of kitchen products in general, beautifully displayed at several booths. People were snapping up all sorts of espresso makers, cups and saucers.

I saw several tables with this type of grappa and liquore selection.

Apparently I missed much also, such as the food section, such a shame as this is always my favorite, and the live animal section, which would have been fun to see. The crowds were maddening. If you don't like that or become claustrophobic, maybe better to stay to the fringes of the market. And for reprise from it all, there are still quiet spots to be found just a few streets away.

After a couple hours of market we met again at the boat. Fabri's next stop for us was an up close and personal ride around the Castelli di Cannero, those very special ruins on small islands, just off of the Cannero Riviera coast. This was a great opportunity to see the castles from all angles. For some time now the Borromeo family, owners of also this property for centuries, has been renovating the larger of the castles. On the smaller of the islands, this sunny and warm day attracted many pleasure boaters to it, to climb or swim, or picnic with an umbrella on the hot rocks. It was great getting so close and seeing this column and statue at one end of the small island.

On the other side of the same island picnicers cover the rocks.

The larger castle is heavily under construction. I can't wait to see the results!

Another view of the larger castle...

We made one more stop before returning to Stresa. We docked at the town of Cannero Riviera, lovely, calm, and peaceful compared to Luino. What a perfect spot to unwind for a lunch before the fast boat ride home. I dined at Ristorante '900, directly on the lake, and enjoyed a glass of white wine and a plate of trofie with pesto, green beans, and potatoes. Perfect...

What a fun day out, made easy by Fabri and our boat captain.

Due to the popularity of the Luino market Fabri takes a full 40 passenger boat each Wednesday in season, but remember, he will arrange any tour that you would like to make, from one person to one hundred, at your convenience and to your specifications. Reach him at:

info@maggiorediscovery.com

Like to shop? Check out all the other shopping posts here: shopping

FYI: Free Water (Or Almost Free) Station In Central Stresa

2011-08-09T08:19:00.001-04:00

This is Stresa's new water station. The Casa dell'Acqua is located just a few short streets from Piazza Cadorna, and centrally located enough to hotels, lake, and train station. Whenever you're passing by, or when starting your day of sightseeing, or, when heading back to your room after a long day, make this part of your route.

This summer, the station, which was opened on July 3, seems to be offering water to all for free. At some time however, there should be a small charge initiated, only 10 euro cents for 1.5 liters of water.

The control panel on the left gives you choices of natural or fizzy water, and sizes of .5, 1.0, and 1.5 liter. There should be a coin slot added soon and instructions for use are on the wall to the left.

And the A marks where the water station is located, in Piazza Giuseppe Sirtori. For reference, the Piazza Cadorna is the large space on the map to the right of Via Principe Tomaso.

The weather's been hot here and I think this water station is a great idea that should be much used and appreciated. Grazie Stresa, for this initiative! The only thing that could make it better would be if it dispensed Prosecco. One can dream, no? :-)

Information: Ufficio Turistico Stresa -- The Official Tourist Office

2011-08-03T16:30:00.001-04:00

The official tourist office of Stresa, Ufficio Turistico Citta di Stresa, is located at the Stresa imbarcadero, on the right side of that building. It is organized and run by the City of Stresa, and therefore it has no ties to any of the individual tour or travel agencies. During the tourist season the office is usually staffed with at least two employees, and all of them are multilingual. There should always be someone on hand who can assist you in Italian, English, German, or French, and possibly a bit of some other languages as well.

Don't hesitate to step inside and ask them any questions you have. While I was there taking these photos there was a steady stream of people coming in and out, and all questions, in any language, were answered to the satisfaction of the asker.

Even if you don't have a specific question, you should stop in the Ufficio Turistico, and better to do so early in your trip rather than later. They have on hand a great supply of free maps: Street maps of Stresa indicating the location of all the major hotels, parking lots, taxi and bus stops, and other important-to-know sites. That same map also indicates the major hiking trails from Mottarone and in the hills around Stresa. Another map, published by the trekking association, shows more detailed hiking and trekking paths on the slopes of Mt. Mottarone. I also picked up a calendar of all the major events taking place in the Stresa/Lago Maggiore region in 2011. All of these publications are printed in several languages. In addition, there are piles of individual flyers advertising many musical, artistic, or cultural events.

All of these services are offered completely free of charge. Take as many maps and flyers as you want. The only items for sale are a variety of Stresa posters, shown on the wall and offered for a few euros each.

In sum, I think it would be a great idea to make a stop here one of your first priorities once you arrive in Stresa. Get a lay of the land, see what's on during your stay, answer any boat or other travel questions, and learn the opening dates and times of the places you intend to visit.

The office itself, by the way, is open daily during the season, March 21 to October 23, 2011, from 10 am until 12:30 pm, and then again from 3:00 pm until 6:30 pm.During the rest of the year it is open from Monday to Friday, with some short hours on Saturday.

The phone number is 0323/30150-31308

You can email them at: info@stresaturismo.it

Or visit their site here: http://www.stresaturismo.it/

Event: World Championship of Fireworks at Cascata del Toce

2011-07-31T11:32:00.001-04:00

Here are some of the first, and undoubtedly best, photographs to appear from last nights World Championship of Fireworks performance at Cascata del Toce. Beginning at 9:45 pm, with perfect weather and clear skies, the "Fiori di Fuoco 2011" performance was the most attended ever.

Certainly the conditions were one reason ... but another was also the great iniative taken by the region to provide buses to tranport visitors from some of the towns along the lake to the site, one hour to the north of Stresa. So popular in fact, that seats on the bus sold out before the closing day of ticket sales, even before knowing if the forecast was for good weather. (I, in fact, was one of those who missed out on a ticket).

I think maybe I should pre-reserve mine now for next year? Well, in the meantime, before that, I hope to catch one of the other remaining Fiori di Fuoco 2011 performances this summer. Here again is the link to the main site and schedule; I hope to catch one of the remaining performances, and I hope that you can as well:http://www.fioridifuoco.it/index.php

all photographs by and property of Giancarlo Parazzoli

Shopping: More Little Gifts

2011-07-19T07:48:00.006-04:00

Last summer I went shopping around the piazza in Stresa with the mission of finding good little gift ideas -- things that were relatively inexpensive and relatively small -- allowing you to buy many of them and share Stresa with as many people as possible. Here's another collection of items that I saw around the piazza that fit these same requirements:

Like these small watercolor prints... They are sold in various shops around Piazza Cadorna and the waterfront. This particular collection were only 2 euro each. They are about 8 x 10 inches, and the scenes are all local of course, views of the lake or other local sights. This perfectly fits the requirements as a gift for someone (or yourself!) -- easy to carry, of Stresa, inexpensive. Dress these up at home with the frames of your choice.

These are a few more of the watercolor choices. I think they capture well the serenity of the lake and are a nice way to remember it.

I saw these calendars in the window of Leone, the book and stationary shop on the corner of Piazza Cadorna and via Roma. Every year there will be a new version of course.. some old returning photos and some new ones. There are several of these to choose from, in various formats and sizes. These two cost 3.50 and 7 euro; there are several in that price range.

These ceramic pasta or salad servers are more generic -- certainly they can be found all over -- but I still like them. I would always remember that I bought them in Stresa, and paired with a bag of local pasta or sauce, this becomes a great Stresa gift. These were 5 euro for the pair.

In addition to pasta, here are a couple more food gift ideas. First, dried fruits. These are always popular in the local markets. I find the taste very superior to most dried fruits I have in the States, I like the bags, with their Italian labels, and this is a way to bring fruit safely back home with you. These bags were under 5 euro each. My favorite? Albicocche... apricots... yummm...

And these are boxes of the famous Stresa Margheritine biscotti... the cookies that were supposedly first made here in Stresa for the Princess Margherita di Savoia back in 1857. These are lightweight, but fragile; pack these with care. These can be found in various food emporiums around the centro of Stresa.

I'll be back with more of these ideas... In the meantime, if you feel like a shopping spree in Stresa check out the other shopping posts here. And maybe you've discovered something we haven't mentioned yet? Want to share it with us?

Day Trips: Bettmeralp, Swiss Alps

2011-07-10T15:54:00.003-04:00

Today I received this set of 10 photographs from Ilias, who is one of our most loyal readers. He has just completed his sixth visit to Stresa! As part of each visit they take a day trip to a different place in the Alps. This year they visited Bettmeralp, and he has been so kind to share his photos with us.

Many people who come to Stresa are interested in taking a day trip to the Alps. It's so tempting after all, to always see those snow-capped mountains around the lake and know they are so close. Also the Stresiani leave Stresa during the hottest parts of the summer and escape to the higher and cooler towns in the Italian or Swiss Alps.

Bettmeralp is a great choice to visit. It is a car-free village and ski resort which can be reached only by cable cars. It is located in the Swiss canton of Valais, 1,957 meters above sea level. One arrives at the Betten train station, either by car or train, and then takes the cable car up to the village. From the village, another cable car leads up to the summit of Bettmerhorn, which lies directly above, and giving great views of, the Aletsch Glacier. This is the largest glacier in the Alps, covering about 120 square kilometres. It moves in the direction of the Rhone valley, and eventually it becomes the source of the Massa River. There are more than 10 cable cars that can be taken up and down during the summer. What's nice about Bettmeralp is its position. From here you have a nice view of not only the glacier, but several other famous peaks, such as the Matterhorn.

Ilias describes for us what they did there:

You have to go to Bettmeralp and from there up to the top. It's only 1,30 hour drive from Stresa and then it's only 1/2 hour to go to the top using cablecars. There is an all day ticket you can use to go up and down as many times as you want and to change to different types of cablecars. With the same ticket (the same day) you can also visit Fiesch and Fiescheralp (higher than Bettmerhorn) and have from there a different view of the Aletsch glacier.

Aren't Ilias's photos stunning? Look at that great view of the Matterhorn in this last one, and back up at the top, the distinctive dark lines in the path of the glacier.

Bettmeralp is an easy drive. If you are searching directions simply search Stresa to Bettmeralp. You'll receive a map like this:

From Stresa you'll get onto the highway towards Switzerland and follow for three signs: First towards Simplon (the Simplon Pass), then towards Brig, and then towards Bettmeralp. Bettmeralp is ideal for a day of hiking. This link will get you started with some interesting walks: http://www.bettmeralp.ch/e/sommer/wandern.html

A very big grazie to you Ilias, for sharing your day with us. And what a gorgeous day you had there, with that crisp and clear blue sky that I love seeing in the Alps. I can positively feel the cool mountain air already...

These posts are about some other ways to make summer visits to the Alps:

Tours: Day Trips To Switzerland

Tours: Cheese And Wine Tasting In The Italian Alps

Leukerbad: La Giornata Dell'Acqua e Della Frutta

Letters From Readers: All Aboard For Train Questions

2011-07-07T06:32:00.000-04:00

Stresa Sights readers always ask very good questions, and summer brings more mail and more questions than usual. Here are a few of the most recent; they all involve the train station, and they will probably be of help to many who are researching Stresa:

Two questions regarding the Lago Maggiore Express:

Q: Could you tell me please what time and from where the €32 trip by rail over Domodossola, Centovalli railway and cruise departs? Can I buy tickets at the train station?

Q: There is mention of a panoramic train, When is this? Does it go in both directions?

A: Here's some information that I hope answers the Lago Maggiore Express questions that many have. The Lago Maggiore Express is basically a loop created from already existing modes of transportation: The normal regional train to Domodossola; the Centovalle (Hundred Valley) railroad through the Alps (this is the panoramic train mentioned); and the boat that you'll take on Lago Maggiore. The Express trip can be done in either direction; and from any point along the loop; just be sure to make connections at the right times. Therefore, there is no starting time or point per se; what is important is to look at the schedule in terms of where you want to start and finish, and create your own itinerary. Usually people take the large ferry ship back and forth from Locarno as part of the Express trip. It is restful; it takes about 3 hours and makes several stops. I've done this and enjoyed it very much. Tickets can be bought at any of the train stations or ferry docks. Any ticket agent will be able to assist you with the times. Tickets do not need to be purchased in advance; but perhaps you may want to visit a ticket office a day or two before you make the journey, just to have the information you will need to plan well. Here's the main website:

http://www.lagomaggioreexpress.com/Inglese/orari.html

And another commonly asked question regarding train tickets:

Q: I have a question about a day trip to Milan. ... I notice several categories [of train tickets] on the internet. What category should I purchase either online or at the station?

A: It is not necessary to buy train tickets online. Not every type of ticket is sold online. You can easily buy them at the Stresa train station the day you travel, or, stop by the station some other day in advance and buy a ticket. This will ensure that you buy the correct ticket. A train ticket becomes validated ON THE DAY YOU USE IT by stamping it in the yellow box along the wall near the tracks at the station. You don't want to forget this step, as the fine is high for not having a validated ticket. The best thing to do if you do forget is to tell a train conductor right away; perhaps they'll go easy on you. See more information in this post:

http://stresasights.blogspot.com/2009/04/stresa-train-station.html

As for categories, ask at the Stresa ticket window for an IC or an EC train. Those are the 'Express' trains. What you DO NOT WANT is an R train. That is the Regional train, which will slowly make every local stop and take twice as long.

And lastly for today, a question about Stresa's wheelchair accessibility:

Q: Can you tell me if it is a level walk to the railway station, the main ferry departure point and the centre of town as we have a person with a wheelchair in our group.

A: This is a very good question. Stresa is flat along the lake and has a wide path that runs the entire distance of the lakefront between the two imbarcaderos, a distance of one mile. Piazza Cadorna, the center of Stresa, is just a couple of streets in from the lake and is also flat and very accessible. However, a little bit further inland Stresa begins to travel uphill very quickly and steeply. The train station is located here, about a 15 minute walk from the lakefront, but a bit uphill. Therefore, choosing a hotel along the lake and using ferries keeps one on flat ground. Many of the private water taxis are also wheelchair accessible. If you must use the train perhaps it would be best to arrange for a taxi or private car, which your hotel should be able to assist you to do.

You know we looooove questions! So don't hesitate to ask us. Chances are a lot of other people are wondering the same thing.

Tours: Summer Day Tours To Toce Falls, Terme di Premia, Monte Rosa, Ornavasso, And More!

2011-07-01T21:33:00.008-04:00

I think this news is going to make a lot of Stresa summer visitors veeeery happy. Finally, finally there are some weekly bus trips offered to some of those places you always wanted to see but couldn't because you needed a car to get there. Organized by the Distretto Turistico dei Laghi, the series is called "Amazing Tours."

Here's the basic information: Two bus trips will run each week of the summer season, ending on September 13. The large and comfortable coach buses will pick up travelers from several towns along the lake in between Dormelletto and Fondatoce. The bus will make its stop in Stresa at 8:40 am. Each round trip ticket is an incredibly reasonable 10 euro.

Here is the list of pick up times and locations:

Departures from:
8.00 am Dormelletto
8.10 am Arona
8.20 am Solcio (Lesa)
8.40 am Stresa
8.50 am Baveno
9.00 am Feriolo – Roundabout
9.05 am Fondotoce – Crossroads near Isolino Camping Site
9.10 am Fondotoce – Cimiter

And here is the list of tour dates and locations. Each is a link to information about that tour on the Distretto site. Tickets should be ordered at least 24 hours in advance, or, they can be bought at the Distretto ticket office in Stresa.

- Amazing Tour 5 luglio 2011 - Thermal Baths and Toce Waterfall
- Amazing Tour 21 luglio 2011 - Thermal Baths & Waterfall
- Amazing Tour 28 luglio 2011 - Thermal Baths & Toce Waterfall
- Amazing Tour 9 agosto 2011 - Thermal Baths & Waterfall
- Amazing Tour 18 agosto 2011 - Thermal Baths & Toce Waterfall
- Amazing Tour 30 agosto 2011 - Thermal Baths & Toce Waterfall
- Amazing Tour 13 settembre 2011 - Thermal Baths & Toce Waterfall
- Amazing Tour 7 luglio 2011 - Mount Rosa, Culture, Food&Wine
- Amazing Tour 2 agosto 2011 - Mount Rosa, Culture, Food&Wine
- Amazing Tour 25 agosto 2011 - Mount Rosa, Culture, Food&Wine
- Amazing Tour 8 settembre 2011 - Mount Rosa, Culture, Food and Wine
- Amazing Tour 19 luglio 2011 - Vigezzo Valley and Pastures of the Loana Valley
- Amazing Tour 16 agosto 2011 - Vigezzo Valley and Pastures of the Loana Valley
- Amazing Tour 26 luglio 2011 - Water and Falls
- Amazing Tour 14 luglio 2011 - Antrona Valley and the Solar Mirror
- Amazing Tour 1 settembre 2011 - Antrona Valley and the Solar Mirror
- Amazing Tour 12 luglio 2011 - Lake Orta and Mottarone
- Amazing Tour 4 agosto 2011 - Lake Orta and Mottarone
- Amazing Tour 6 settembre 2011 - Lake Orta and Mottarone
- Amazing Tour 23 agosto 2011 - Divedro Valley, Nature and Donkey Trekking
- Amazing Tour 11 agosto 2011 - Nature Park of Alpe Devero

- Amazing Tour each wednesday - Ancient Marble Quarry of Ornavasso

In addition to the two weekly trips, there is a special bus trip each Wednesday to the Antica Cava di Ornavasso, the old quarry that we recently mentioned in reference to the musical concerts there. The bus does not run in the evenings for the concert; this is however a wonderful opportunity to tour the quarry during the day.

Here are some of the destinations:

Alpe Devero Nature Park

Cascada di Toce Waterfall

Macugnaga

Antica Cava at Ornavasso

Orta

I think these tours are going to be very successful. What a relaxing and economical way to see unforgettable scenery and places near Stresa. Remember, these tours should be booked at least 24 hours in advance. You can purchase them by clicking on the links. Or...

Visit the Distretto office in Stresa:

Corso Italia, 18, Stresa 28838

+30 0323 30416

www.distrettolaghi.it

infoturismo@distrettolaghi.it

Music: Three More Musical Events For Summer 2011

2011-06-27T11:52:00.003-04:00

Surround yourself not only with sights, but with sounds, for a magical, musical stay in Stresa. If you're in Stresa this summer, or will be, here are three more melodic events that you should know about:

Concerti Al'Antica Cava di Ornavasso: Already underway, and running until August 18, these are a series of concerts, focusing on jazz, that take place in a most unusual venue -- 200 meters below the ground at the marble quarry at Ornavasso. A working quarry since Roman times, the marble from here has been used for some very well known buildings, most notably the Duomo di Milano. Concert goers will enter the theatre through a long quarry tunnel, wearing hardhats, and sit in a small underground chamber. In addition to the music most performances are multimedia events, with light shows or projections on the back stone wall. There are a number of various ticket offerings; some include dinner at a local restaurant. Basic admission to the quarry and a concert is 10 euro.

Ornavasso is about 20 minutes north of Stresa. You will need a car, or arrange for a ride, to reach this location. For complete information, and tickets, visit the official site here: www.anticacava.it/eventi

__________

The Ameno Blues Festival 2011, on Lago d'Orta, has also already begun, but there are two more appointments on the schedule. On July 8 the East River String Band will perform, and on the next evening, July 9, 19th Street Red will take the stage. Tickets are 8 euro for one concert or 15 euro for both; for persons under 14 or over 70 the concerts are free. Both performances start at 8 pm.

Lago d'Orta can be reached during the day easily by bus from Stresa during the summer, but the bus does not run in the late evening to return from the concert. Therefore, it will be necessary to arrange for return transportation or to go with a car. For more information about these blues concerts, and to purchase tickets, visit the site at: http://www.amenoblues.it/index.php

__________

Now in its fourteenth year, the Baveno Festival Umberto Giordano is another series of musical events that combines ancient and natural venues with modern technology and enchanting music. Named for the composer who spent much of his life living and working in his beloved Villa Fedora in Baveno, the festival showcases all genres of music from the past century, as well as other art forms such as poetry, light, and sound, in these multimedia events. The 13 performances begin on July 8 and continue until July 22, 2011. The venues include Chiesa SS Gervaso and Protaso, Baveno; Chiesa San Carlo, Feriolo; the quarry at Baveno; and the lakefront at Baveno, for the very special Painted Sails (Le vele dipinte) event. Some events are free, and some have a small admission. The very complete website has all the necessary information for each of these events as well as ticket information: http://www.festivalgiordano.it/index.asp

Baveno is the town adjacent to Stresa, only 3 miles along the lake. During the day it is easy to reach Baveno by bus or ferry; however, late at night these no longer run and it may be necessary to take a taxi back to Stresa.

__________

Whether you choose to try one performance during your vacation, or perhaps music is a central part of your itinerary, you could not find yourself in any more of a NOTE-worthy location than Stresa. In addition to these above-mentioned performances don't forget to check the important Stresa Festival schedule, and also, don't forget the more casual, but also enjoyable, music offered in other local Stresa venues, such as jazz each Thursday at Cafe Verbanella, music almost nightly outdoors in front of Cafe Bolongaro, the frequent free musical offerings both inside and outside the Regina Palace hotel (check at the hotel for this schedule), and for those looking for some more modern rock or dance music, the weekend live bands at Lido Baveno and Loco Beach Club.

Photo Gallery: Views Of Lago Maggiore

2011-06-21T13:07:00.002-04:00

Is anyone else missing the beautiful and calming views of Lago Maggiore from Stresa? I know I am, because I'm not there right now. So I'm so glad I stumbled onto this gorgeous collection of photos, taken by various photographers, on the site Verbanofun Luino. Take a look; these are all views from various points around and above Stresa. It's almost like being there...

I wish I knew who all the photographers of these photographs are, to give them all the credit they deserve for them, but you can see all these photos and many more at www.VerbanofunLuino.com

Food: Frutti di Mare

2011-06-17T07:25:00.001-04:00

Are you thinking about where to eat this weekend? If you were in Stresa you could be having this plate of frutti di mare at Ristorante Il Portico. And, this photo is only half of the platter. So, bring your appetite and a friend!

Il Portico is located just one street off the lake, in the center of Stresa.
Via Ottolini 9

Stresa, Piemonte 28838

Grazie to my friends D & B who sent me this delicious photo! Fa venire l'acquolina in bocca... it makes my mouth water...

History: Il Gatto Con L'Ombrello

2011-06-12T18:42:00.007-04:00

Here is a little local curiosity that makes me smile every time I see it. The photo above is of the official town statue in the center of the tiny village of Brovello Carpugnino. Yes, it is an adorable cat holding an umbrella over his head. Why did Carpugnino do this?

You're not likely to see Carpugnino on your trip to Stresa, unless you make a wrong turn, or unless you are a golfer. Because in this sleepy village of only about 500 inhabitants is located the world-class Golf Club des Iles Borromees, thanks to the pure green meadows with spectacular views over the lake.

And the cat. The reason he is here is simple and charming. The residents of Carpugnino call themselves 'gatti,' the Italian word for cat. And he is holding an umbrella to recognize the town's history as the center of umbrella makers, who in the past three centuries have made this region famous for the quality of their products. They and their descendants still consider Carpugnino their base, although the official umbrella museum, Museo dell'Ombrello e del Parosole, is located in Gignese, just a bit more up the mountain.

Let's become serious, just for a moment, to talk about the umbrella makers. Their history began as one of poverty and ends as one of pride. There is also a plaque in the piazza, behind the cat. Information from the museum teaches us something about it: In the 1700s, the very poor residents of the area, many of them immigrants seeking work, found an opportunity when they met wealthy French in Torino who were in need of umbrellas, parasols, and repairs. The plaque reads, "Al prumm dal lungon a Carpignin, a trua' l' Case'r senza an bergnin." It's the dialect of the umbrella makers, and it means, "On New Year's Day, to seek his master, without a penny." It is describing the practice of young apprentices, being offered in this piazza on the first day of the year, to learn the trade from umbrella masters. The umbrella makers, due in part to their diverse backgrounds, and in part to a desire to be able to speak privately, developed a singular dialect that was both secret and witty. And the apprentices, if they did their work well, could return home at Christmas well trained, with new shoes and a silk umbrella.

So, that you've driven up to Carpugnino to see the cat in front of la Chiesa San Donato, what else can you do? The aforementioned golf of course, and then I suggest you head over to Ristorante all'Osteria, a wonderful spot for lunch or dinner, filled with locals and excellent food. It's the reason that I am usually passing this way. And there you have it... a little bit of trivia and a bit of history about a very cute statue in a proud little village!

If you'd like some more information about some of the places mentioned in this post:

Ristorante all'osteria
V. S. Pietro, SNC
28833 Brovello Carpugnino

Tel.: (+39) 0323929954

Museo dell'Ombrello e del Parasole: www.gignese.it/museo/ombrello/index.html

Golf Club des Iles Borromees: www.golfdesilesborromees.it

Event: Fiori di Fuoco -- World Championship Of Fireworks

2011-06-07T11:20:00.007-04:00

Da non perdere! That's how to say DO NOT MISS THIS! in Italian. I have just added these dates onto the Stresa Sights calendar for this summer's World Championship of Fireworks, the Fiori di Fuoco. This year marks the 13th edition of the unforgettable battle in the skies. The program begins on July 23th, and it ends on August 28th. Five pyrotechnic companies, from three different continents, competing in a fierce battle in six (no! now seven!) incredible locations, starting with ... Wait. You know what? Better to just watch the video... :-)

Here, for your convenience, are the dates. This is, as we've said before, one not-to-be-missed event.

Saturday 23 July 2011 - Stresa. This date has been added to the program since the production of the video and is not on the website yet either. This performance will be at the Stresa waterfront, in celebration of the opening of the Stresa Music Festivale.

Saturday 30 July 2011- Cascata del Toce, Formazza
Up until now this had always been the premiere event of the Fiori di Fuoci. So let's continue to call this the grand opening display with lights and sound, at the MAGNIFICENT dam called Cascata del Toce. Company: PARENTE FIREWORKS - ITALY

Friday 5 August 2011- Cannobio (VB), Lago Maggiore
Company: Feyeriya - UKRAINE

Saturday 6 August 2011- Angera/Arona, Lago Maggiore
Company: Mudan Fireworks - TAIWAN

Sunday 14 August 2011 - Santa Maria Maggiore, Valle Vigezzo
Company: Pireemar Pirotecnia Especializada - MEXICO

Monday 15 August 2011 - Laveno Mombello, Lago Maggiore
Company: Steffes-Ollig GmbH – GERMANY

Sunday 21 August 2011 - Omegna, Lago d'Orta
Company: Pyrostars Fireworks – SWITZERLAND

Sunday 28 August 2011 - Omegna, Lago d'Orta
Grand finale display of pyrotechnics set to music: Company: PARENTE FIREWORKS - ITALY

Main website: www.fioridifuoco.it

A Golden Day In Stresa: Definitely One Of The 100 Places You Should Go In Italy!

2011-06-04T09:53:00.003-04:00

It's been a good week! It was very exciting to have been asked by Susan Van Allen, the author of the great travel book 100 Places in Italy Every Woman Should Go, to write a guest post for her blog. This book is a must-read and a must-gift! While it is aimed mainly at women, there is much wisdom inside for all travelers. And the fascinating stories and information, which do focus primarily on interesting women in Italy both past and present, make a visit to the locations Susan writes about more intimate and real. But there are also the more comfort-based reasons that women like this book... the list of spas, special shopping and yoga and cooking classes for example. Then, for each area, Susan describes a 'Golden Day,' a how-to guide for a perfect little day in some of these places.

And that brings me back to her blog, because it is called Golden Days in Italy. Here, Susan visits interesting locales all over Italy, and describes in detail what to do if you have but one day to spend in them. It's all spelled out... what you should see, the best routes to take and what to look for, and restaurant suggestions. Susan contacted me a little time ago and asked me to provide a Golden Day in Stresa. And so, we are very proud to be Golden Day number 54: Dreaming of Stresa on Lago Maggiore.

Writing about a Golden Day in Stresa is easy, of course... I have had many, many such days here. But I had to think, what if I only had one? Or, better, if I were showing a friend around here in only one day, where would I take them? Here's what I decided I would do, where I would take you, in your one day in Stresa:

Golden Day Fifty Four: Dreaming of Stresa on Lago Maggiore

Let’s start with the lake. We’ll walk along the Lungolago, the pink paved path that runs along Stresa’s lakefront. On the other side of the path are Stresa’s famous old hotels, like the Hotel des Iles Borromees and the Regina Palace. Let’s stop for a cappuccino and a brioche at Gigi Bar (Corso Italia 30), across from the ferry. The Liberty-style bar has been here serving cappuccinos since the 1800s, and they still bake their own brioche on the premises.

Then we’ll take a quick 10-minute ride on one of the Navigazione Laghi ferries to Isola Bella, one of the three Borromean Islands here in the Golfo Borromeo. (Click here for schedules). The island is only 400 meters off the shore from Stresa, and home to the Palazzo Borromeo. The whole island was reshaped in the 1600s by the Borromeo family to resemble a large ship, with the imposing palace being at the front of the bow.

Inside, one of the highlights is the Shell Grotto, which is a passageway leading from the palace to the gardens. Its cavernous spaces are covered in shells and small stones. Outside, we’ll discover a monumental wall of sculptures. The top is crowned with a large stone unicorn, the Borromeo family emblem, who watches over the gardens while his rider, Love, holds on to his back. White peacocks roam everywhere in the garden, free and tame. The garden has ten tiers, each set back from each other, adorned with statues that wave at you from the terraces.

Now let’s wander a bit through the alleys of the medieval village that hugs the sides of the palace. Centuries ago, these stone buildings were inhabited by palace workers and craftsmen; today we find shops and restaurants. A good place to stop for lunch is Ristorante Elvezia (Lungolago Vittorio Emanuele 18, 032 33043). We can sit upstairs, on a terrace shaded with grape vines. Specialties of the house include fresh fish from the lake, such as persico or coregone. Or try their pasta sampler, which will give you a few small servings of different dishes all prepared with their homemade pasta.

Back to the ferry, but we’ll take it to the other Stresa imbarcadero this time, the one called Carciano. First stop when we disembark is an after-lunch espresso. I recommend L’Idrovolante (Piazzale Lido 6, 0323 31384), the bar and restaurant that overhangs the lake, or Loco Beach Club (Piazzale Lido Carciano, 0323 934740), which overlooks Stresa’s small sand beach. From either place, look up at the cables running up the mountain over our heads. After our espresso we’ll take a gondola up this cableway, rising almost 5000 feet in 18 minutes, to the top of Mt. Mottarone. (Click here for schedule). Now we have 360° views of seven lakes and even the golden statue atop the Duomo in Milan. Up here it can be much chillier than down below at the lake. So let’s take refuge in rustic Casa della Neve (0323 923516), one of the mountain restaurants. The traditional drink is the fil da fer, which is served hot. It’s a tummy-warming mixture of whiskey rye, milk, sugar, egg yolks, marsala, and a hint of vanilla.

We’ll go back down the cableway to Stresa for dinner in Piazza Cadorna, the heart of town. The tables are filling up. Waiters scurry back and forth carrying plates under the wide umbrellas. As the sun sets the small lights on the umbrellas blink on. I recommend Café Torino (Piazza Cadorna 23, 0323 30652). They make good simple fare such as Vitello Tonno, the Milanese specialty of thin slices of veal covered with a chilled tuna and caper sauce. Other favorites are their Insalata di Polpo con Patate and the Ravioli con Brie e Speck. And after, we need to walk only a few more feet to Fior di Gelato. Let’s take our gelato, sit on a bench, and listen to the jazz band that’s playing on the other side of the piazza.

Lake, mountain, gelato and jazz. It’s been a good day in Stresa.

So, here are your assignments:

Read, use, and give as gifts 100 Places in Italy Every Woman Should Go

Visit often and read Susan's Golden Days blog for more great travel ideas

If you like, then click that like button in the right-hand column to receive new Stresa Sights posts on Facebook. This way you'll be reminded to come back to the blog to use its resources to plan your trip, or maybe to remember a great time you spent here and inspire you to start planning another.

Those are your assignments... For me, I am just very grateful to Susan, for asking me to write the guest post, and for giving me the opportunity to spread the word about Stresa a little more. Also, thanks to all of you who shared the information around on Facebook already, like Gina at Villa Vita, and thanks to Stresa 2.0, for writing an article about it in Italian for Stresa's own blog, to let the Stresiani know how word of their city is getting around. And grazie tanto tanto to my colleague Giuseppe, for all of my golden days, not only in Stresa, but everywhere.

Have you had a perfect day in Stresa? What did your's include?

FYI: Important Summer Planning Links

2011-05-29T09:56:00.003-04:00

Summer planning starts right here! With the season underway, and so many planning their holidays to Stresa, I'm putting some of the most helpful links and older posts all together here to get you started.

Main Sites and Attractions: Start your search and planning with our Top Ten List. It'll acquaint you with all the most popular places to know about and see.

Important Annual Events: Check your travel dates against these events. Some will require purchasing tickets in advance.

Stresa Festival: The annual festival that brings together world class musicians and incredible venues.

Fiori di Fuoco: The World Championship of Fireworks usually runs from mid July through mid August, with different fireworks exhibitions in different venues each week.

Transportation: The Transportation tag has lots of helpful information on various topics regarding how to get around, but here are the most important links:

Alibus from Malpensa to Stresa: Running from Easter through September, this is a popular, economical, and easy way to transfer between Stresa and Malpensa Airport.

Train from Malpensa to Stresa: A very frequently asked question, here's some information on train routes and Trenitalia links.

Driving to Stresa from Malpensa: Are you arriving at Stresa by car from Malpensa or Milan? You'll need this link with directions and photos.

Navigazione Laghi: The ferry service comprises many boats that are not only transportation, they are relaxing and a great way to see the scenery. Learn a bit how to get around on the boats here.

Buses: The local buses can take you many places relatively easily. Here's some information about using the bus system.

What else can you find about about in the Transportation link? Water taxis, the Cableway, Milan's trams, and much more useful information.

Accommodations: This is a list of all the major hotels in Stresa, with links to their own sites.

For the season I will keep this post as a permanent spot on the right of the blog for easy referencing.

This should get you well on your way. Use the blog search feature, and the tags in the Activity List and the Important Links on the right for more. And if you still need some assistance, don't hesitate to write to us. We love hearing from our readers. Happy planning... can't wait to see you in Stresa!